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What I Made: Oaklyn

bodysuit outfit women

This is not your momma’s bodysuit nor is it a leftover leotard from my or your dancing days. Oh wait, that’s right, I was never a dancer. In any case, I’m pretty nuts about bodysuits right now. Gotta have them, need to have them. They’ve become a wardrobe staple. They’re back and better than ever before. So not 1989.

moodboard

Fabric and Trims

Front and Back Body + Interior and Exterior Neckband: White shiny milliskin from Spandex House underlined with white stretch mesh from Fleishman Fabrics
Front panel/bib/insert: White fish scale lace
Elastic: ⅜” picot/plush elastic from Bra Making Supplies by Arte Crafts – used throughout (armhole + leg and back opening)
Hooks + Eyes (neckband): Fleishman Fabrics
Crotch lining: white cotton jersey

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Pattern and construction

This pattern has come a long way – below is a side by side of version one, version two and version three. This one had the most changes to the pattern though:

  • Added 1/2″ to front and back body length
  • Lowered bust dart 1″
  • Lowered leg opening 3/4″
  • Slashed and opened back leg opening 3/8″, blending to 0″ at center back. This eliminated “double butt” – when the leg opening is too tight and cuts into the skin
  • Moved crotch seam back 1″ (crotch lining length also increased 1″)
  • Changed neckback from foldover to 2 piece and slashed and closed to make it curved instead of a rectangle
  • Raised back neck 1/2″
  • Shifted shoulder seam forward, THEN increased shoulder slope on front and back 1/8″ by reducing at armhole, blending to 0″ at neck
  • Add center front (CF) panel
oaklyn-evolution

The neckband on Ashton was a rectangle, folded in half and overlocked/merrowed to the neck. It stood away from the neck at the front, which wasn’t a huge eye sore, but bothered me. Now, the neckband fits the curve of my neck WAY better. It still has issues at the back – don’t we all have issues? I have to slant/pivot/takeaway the neckband at upper CB edge and blend to 0″ at lower CB edge. I also don’t like how the neckband is finished. At first, I overlocked/merrow the interior bottom edge and stitched in the ditch. But you could see the neckband through the lace front panel – even if you don’t know how to sew, you would notice it. So I removed the overlock/merrow and trimmed to about 3/16″ away from stitch/seam. I tried to turn under and clean finish, but it is super tricky to achieve a clean turn in a stretch fabric. Even if you iron it in place (on a low heat setting), it doesn’t crease enough. It would also be very bulky, making the seam allowances noticeable.

To add stability to the CB edges, but also maintain the stretch of the neckband, I sewed a square of 15 denier tricot to the interior neckband using straight stitch.  This means that only a portion of the neck band is stabilized and provides body that is needed to support the hook and eyes.

I summed up all of these changes below. For me, a visual makes it so much easier to understand.

Side note: I sewed this bodysuit using the Spiegel 60609. Click here to learn more about the machine and click here to read my review

pattern_changes

And I’m not sure if anyone else does this, or is interested, but I recorded the specs for this bodysuit. It’s super helpful to me and serves as a great crosscheck (i.e. when the front armhole measures much less than the back armhole, you know something’s up) as well a good reference for future projects.

POINT OF MEASURE D E S C R I P T I O N M E A S U R M E N T
Front Body Length from Neck Seam 24.875″
Neckband Height 1.25″
Dart from HPS (High Point of Shoulder) 9.185″
Dart from CF (Center Front) 3.625″
Front Armhole Drop 7″
Front Armhole Length (Along Curve) 8.25″
Back Armhole Drop 7.5″
Back Armhole Length (Along Curve) 8.625″
Shoulder Width 2.185″
Crotch Width @ Smallest Point 2.185″
Leg Opening (Each) 19.25″
Length of Back Opening 33″
Back Neck Drop 0.3125″
Body Length from CB Neck 27.5″
Total Elastic Needed 3.25 yards

HOW I WEAR IT

With three new bodysuits in my wardrobe, I’ve definitely found ways to wear all of them. On repeat. Actually, one of my outfits right now is the Ashton or Oaklyn with a pair of Madewell overalls. I bought a jumper dress from Free People, but it’s still a little too chilly to wear it. Warm weather, get here already!

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5 Comments

  1. Reply

    The Sewing CPA

    All your bodysuits look amazing. I love your pictures!

  2. Reply

    redeyedtreefr0g

    It makes me so happy to see another girl that likes overalls like me 🙂

    • Reply

      maddie

      I LOVE overalls. I’m currently trying to find a short pair for summer.

  3. Reply

    heathercase

    This is awesome!! I love Body Suits! So glad they’re making a come back. Better start on mine:)

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