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A Mallori Lane for (Slightly) Larger Chests

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Good design versus great design – what do you think is the difference? I believe that a good design is one that works in many fabric and trims, and a great design is one that in addition to the previous, is flattering on many shapes and sizes. One example is Diane von Furstenberg’s wrap dress. She launched it in 1974 and today, women are still wearing it and looking just as good. Whether the dress be in a wild cheetah or simple diamond print, almost all women transform into a knockout when they put it on. Even in a plain color, it does wonders for a woman’s figure. Another example of a great design, this one being lingerie, is Cloth Habit’s Watson. I know, you’re probably sick of me tooting Amy’s horn, but I totally have a girl crush on her! I’ve seen so many iterations of the Watson and have yet to find one that is super unflattering.

I’ve loved seeing everyone’s version of Mallori Lane, but viewing all the variations has me thinking – is it a good design or a great design? Mallori Lane was designed for a small chest, is there a way to make it wearable for a larger group of women? This Mallori Lane was a test of just that.

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fabric

Front bodice: light blue stretch lycra underline with stretch mesh (both from Fleishman Fabrics). As always, I used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting.

Front and back bottom band: light blue stretch lace (Tailor Made Shop).

trims

1/4″ plush/picot elastic throughout (Bra Making Supplies by Arte Crafts)
1/4” strap elastic for vertical and horizontal back straps (Bra Making Supplies by Arte Crafts)
2 rose gold metal rings and sliders (Bra Making Supplies by Arte Crafts). Yes, you read that right, rose gold rings and sliders!
3/8” channeling for side (Bra Making Supplies by Arte Crafts)

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The curve above and below the bust point, which create the sweetheart neckline, provide extra length to accommodate minimal projection, enough for cup sizes A-B. In order for Mallori Lane to fit a larger chest, shirring or darts are required. I think this silhouette would look good on both large and small chests; it’s just a matter of changing the pattern to work for both sets of women. I didn’t want to make another pattern, so I added a construction detail – shirring at the center front. I don’t think it is a be all fix – I’m not sure how it would work for a D cup or larger – but I’m still playing around with this pattern to make it more wearable. So, if you’ve hesitated to make a Mallori Lane because you’re on the larger end of the sizing, try this alteration.

All other construction details are the same as the previous Mallori Lane, which is why I’m only including 2 photos today. You can see close ups of the construction in that post.

COMMENTS

In addition to making it more wearable, the shirring also added to the bras flat/hanger appeal. It doesn’t look like a rectangular box for a prepubescent teenager. At least less so.

Also, I’m not sure if you can see my earrings close enough in the first photo, but they’re from Rocksbox, a company that lets you loan 3 pieces of jewelry a month. The items can either be returned or purchased at the end of the 30 days. I have a pair of earring and rings I wear daily (they were my mom’s), but when they reached out to me, I decided to try it out as a way to add more variety. So far, I really like it. The quality is good and the prices are reasonable. I know it’s not sewing related, but I thought I’d share with you that all Madalynne readers get their first month free with the coupon code madalynnexoxo. So, if you’re interested, try it!

If you haven’t hear about Mallori Lane, click here to read more about the free PDF bra pattern I created. If you made your own version, be sure to share it with me and/or upload images to instagram with the hashtag #bramakingwithmadalynne

3 Comments

  1. Reply

    er

    I’m so confused by this. What makes it suitable for larger chests? I have a smaller-than-average chest, but this thing looks like it would be extremely uncomfortable and wouldn’t provide any support. What purpose is it supposed to serve? Is it just a cropped tank top, or is it actually supposed to serve as a bra?

  2. Reply

    Skip

    Yep, I’m a ‘c’ cup and this would pose many issues. Firstly, it is the band that provides support – a piece of Lycra is really not going to do me any favours. And pulling it on over my head? Seriously? Sigh, so many questions . . . .

  3. Reply

    Emili Day

    Im a B cup and this is my favorite kind of bra to wear. I love the addition of the shirring, makes it look more feminine and less “athletic bra”. Im going to try this but just add extra in the back for my 40 bust measurment…

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