Category: Construction

What I Made: Marlborough Bra

Say hello to Malborough, a ray of sunshine and the newest addition to my bra wardrobe. The author of Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction, Norma Loehr released this pattern last year. It took me until now to make my own and the reason was that I was perfecting the fit of Amber Rosalind. I’m a one project at a time type of sewer. Available in approximately 40 sizes (30A-40DD), the pattern is geared towards smaller busts. I cut a 32A and with one alteration, which was related to design (adding ¼” to the top of the upper cup since I wasn’t using a scalloped lace), it fits perfectly. Perf-ectl-y! The PDF contains 9 pages for directions and 2 pages for your bra pattern, which are printed onto one page. No taping – woot, woot! The pattern suggests a stable, non stretch fabric for the cups and the bridge, but from successes from previous bras, I used a yellow, stretch lace for all pieces and lined all pieces with a nude stretch mesh. The lace has 30% stretch in all directions, and underlined with the mesh, the fabrics together have about 25%. All notions were dyed to match the fabric using RIT. I normally using Dharma Trading’s acid dyes, but I ordered the wrong shade of yellow. Most all purpose dyes such as RIT contain two kinds of dye that are mixed together – a direct dye which does a fair job of dyeing cotton, and a ‘leveling acid’ dye which will dye both wool and nylon. It is best to use pure acid dyes on nylon – which this elastic is made of – because you avoid wasting the direct dye portion that cannot stick to nylon. However, I didn’t want to wait for another mail order, so RIT it was! The dye…

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tags: bra making, Construction Comments: 12

What i Made: Watson Bra

Well, I’ve gone and done it. I made a Watson Bra. It seems like everyone and their mother’s have made a Watson, so I hopped on that sewing train and rode it to bra heaven. Like everyone else who has reviewed the pattern, I am a convert. Amy, you are a sewing God for creating this beautiful pattern. Bra magic! Inspired by the 1970s, this pattern closely resembles one of my favorite lingerie company’s signature piece. Wherever and whomever the pattern was inspired by, it is just like Anne expressed – the real deal. It offers a modern bra pattern that any sewer can whip up. Most amazing is how flattering it is for a wide range of body shapes. Tiny, skinny, medium, or large – everyone looks so damn good! The instructions don’t hold your hand. Amy tells you what to do and then supplements with what she did. So, she says to attach the elastic using a zigzag stitch, but doesn’t instruct you to use a particular width or length. I like that because stitch width and length is machine dependent as well as dependent on the width of elastic, which I’m sure many sewers will change to their own liking. The pattern is cleverly drafted so that for most sizes, you only have to print out the pages of your size set. For my size, 32A, I printed out less than 10 pages, including instruction. Construction was straight forward. With no changes to the pattern, the fit was spot on too. The fabric was the same stretch lace I used on Amber Rosalind. As opposed to that bra, I used a micro mesh for the lining instead of a powernet (I lined all pieces). The power net provides a lot more support in comparison to the micro mesh. Although…

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tags: bra making, Construction Comments: 30