Category: Construction

What I Made: Dakota

First, if you live in the US, I hope you’re having a great Labor Day! I’ll be in the studio today teaching and prepping to shoot a sew-along for this pattern. Oops! I might have let the cat out of the bag… Just like Sierra and Blake, these undies are a copy of a RTW design. To update those who missed those posts, I used to have a thing against buying lingerie from the market. It went against my handmade/sewing motto. That mentality changed when I went to Paris this summer and bought lingerie for the first time in over a year, rubbing off the patterns and copying the techniques. So far, it is helping my skills a lot – I get to experiment with guidance from an actual garment. It’s A LOT easier to copy a design when you have the tangible item in front of you rather than referring to photos. You can also take one half apart to see how it’s sewn and leave the other in tact. That’s assuming you’re not going to wear it. F A B R I C  +  T R I M S Front and back: black and white printed lycra underlined with white stretch mesh, both from Fleishman Fabrics. I used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together prior to cutting. I treated the layers as one going forward. The lycra is a very good quality, but it has 70% stretch, and for underwear, I like that number to be around 40%. The underwear has more “control”. Lining a stretch fabric with another stretch fabric reduces the stretch roughly 20%.  So, by underlining with the stretch mesh, I was able to get the stretch that I wanted. Crotch lining: cotton jersey from Fleishman Fabrics 3/8” firm black elastic for leg opening and front waist from Bra…

Read More >>>

tags: Construction, fabric, Fashon, lingerie Comments: 1

Bra Making with Madalynne Recap

Two and a half years ago, I attended a calligraphy workshop that was co-hosted by New Old Fashioned and The Hive Studio and loved how an otherwise simple learning experience was turned into an event via gift bags, drinks, photo booth, and sweets and treats. It’s the same reason I loved Bri Emery’s Blogshop, which I attended two years prior. Anna, the owner of New Old Fashioned, and I met shortly after that class to discuss how we could collaborate on a sewing workshop. Going into that brainstorm session, I had in mind a general home ec class, possibly a class on tailoring? When I showed her what I had been made most recently – Amber Rosalind – her eyes opened wide. Why not host a bra making workshop? Bingo. Anna and co-hosted the first workshop in February, and I can’t believe that last Saturday marked numero 3. It still astounds me that I sell tickets; I was shocked when all 4 sessions for 2015 sold out. I mean, I love bra making, but I thought I was the weirdo. Turns out, other women like bra making too. Phew! I’m not the only one! Last week was a whirlwind. I spent every day before and after work prepping – organizing goodie bags, cutting fabric, sweeping and vacuuming, cutting each person’s pattern, sweeping and vacuuming, setting up the machines, sweeping and vacuuming. What? I hate dirty floors! By Friday evening, I was equal parts exhausted and pumped. Each session brings different students and personalities. This group was the most social. Right off the bat, they wanted to get to know each other. There were a few celebrity attendees – Julie of Dear Kates and Lauren of Lauren of The Constitution of Lauren. The celebrity appearance to top them all was my grandma. I texted my grandpa…

Read More >>>

tags: bra making, Construction, lingerie, madalynne studios, philadelphia, teaching Comments: 2

Cover Stitch Tutorial

Earlier this month, I posted that I purchased a Janome CoverPro CP1000 cover stitch machine, but at that time, I hadn’t even threaded the darn thing. Since then, I’ve had time to mess around with it, and I’m here to tell you today, it is fantastic! FAN-TASTIC! This machine is like my duck-billed scissors – a tool that I knew would make sewing bras much easier, more professional and more efficient, but didn’t make the investment for a long time. While a couple weeks is hardly enough time for me to post a full review, I do have a simple tutorial to share with you – how to attach a bottom band to a bra like this one. I’m a novice when it comes to cover stitching, so if you think I could have sewed it a better way, let me know in the comments! SUpplies ELASTIC: I suggest using elastic at least ½” wide. Anything smaller will be super hard to sew (the width of a cover stitch is between 1/8”-3/8”) and won’t provide support. Half of an inch provides only a little support, but 3/8” or ¼” won’t provide any. The band would surely ride up in the back. For this tutorial, I’m using ¾” plush/picot elastic from Bra Makers Supply, but you could use braided elastic. It’s usually encased inside a tunnel, but it can be used for this application. A Princess Tam Tam bra I bought in Paris uses braided elastic this way. Also, braided elastic is easier to source. Joann’s sells it. STRETCH SCALLOPED LACE: Galloon or full yardage is fine as long as it’s at least double the width of the elastic. I am using a black metallic lace from Tailor Made Shop. SCISSORS + GLUE: I recommend duck-billed – it trims closer to the seam/stitch…

Read More >>>

tags: bra making, Construction, janome, lingerie, teaching, tutorial Comments: 3

Recap: CurveNY

I had a me-day last Monday, a totally self-indulgent day where I geeked out over lingerie and attended CurveNY. I feel somewhat embarrassed admitting that I went. Why? When I read or hear about Comic-Con, I wonder what weirdos go. Seriously? Three-days of movies, science fiction and comics? What dorks! Well, I am now that dork, but instead of it being comics, it’s lingerie. Oi vey! What has my world come to?! The reason I attended was for inspiration. Really, that’s it. I was not there to buy and I was not there to sell. New York is just a short, cheap bus ride away and CurveNY is one of the nation’s largest lingerie trade shows. Why not go? The day turned out to be not what I expected and at the same time, way better than I ever imagined. Within the first 30 minutes, I ran into Pamela Cooper. She attended my bra workshop and just launched her own lingerie line. I spent the remainder of the day hitting up the booths and it was such a treat spending time with her. Not to mention, it was so much easier to approach each one with a partner in crime. If you’re not privy to CurveNY, I’ll give you a brief rundown. It is a men’s and women’s lingerie and swimwear trade show that showcases spring/summer or fall/winter collections from brands around the world. Buyers and press attend the 3-day event to either purchase or review styles for the upcoming season. Also to note, it is bicoastal, happening separately in New York and Las Vegas. Out of more than 300 vendors, below are my favorites. I don’t mean to be a bore with a review post. Seriously. Before I began making lingerie, Victoria Secret was pretty much the only lingerie…

Read More >>>

tags: bra making, Construction, Fashon, lingerie, personal Comments: 12

Janome Coverpro CP1000 Review

I finally did it. I caved into my urge and bought a cover stitch machine. I’m so good at saying no to donuts, soda and fried food, but when it comes to sewing, I just can’t! This was a spontaneous purchase. I have lusted for a cover stitch machine for a while, but I didn’t intend to purchase until I researched and tested a few models at my local dealer, Steve’s Sewing Center, like the good sewist I always am (*wink wink*). My search began on Bra Making Forum, which is my go-to for everything handmade lingerie. You should join if you’re not already a member! Just a side note and a little self promotion. Back to my cover stitch story – I asked the ladies for their advice on brand and models. Many recommended the Janome 1000CP, and the stars aligned when a woman offered to sell me her barely used one. Knowing very little about the machine, I gave her a price. It could have been a mistake or a real steal. The longer I have it, the more I realize that it was the latter. Now that I’ve added this machine to my arsenal, I think I’m locked, loaded and ready to sew some lingerie, don’t you think!? Watch out or I’ll shoot your eye out! What is a Cover Stitch? First off, what is a cover stitch machine? The best thing since duck-billed scissors. Real technology at play here, sewing peeps. A cover stitch machine is a bobbin-less sewing machine used for hemming knits and topstitching seams that need stretch. It can also bind and attach elastic. While the top side of the stitch forms one, two or three rows of parallel straight stitches, the back side forms a ladder stitch configuration. There aren’t a lot of cover stitch machines on the market for…

Read More >>>

tags: Construction, janome, lingerie, review Comments: 12

Cat Approved Giveaway

Have you ever come across a store that combines craft materials and cat and pup paraphernalia? When Lindsay launched Stitch Craft, her goal was to provide crafters with high quality fabric, yarn, notions and stationery from all around the world. As avid sewers and knitters, we know just how much time, energy and love goes into making handmade items. Lindsay believes that crafters deserve tools and materials made with the same craftsmanship and attention to detail. She currently has a selection of fabric from France, patterns from Finland and quirky stationery from Japan. She recently opened, so I am helping her get the word out about her new store with a giveaway. You better enter now before Sage steals all the goodies for himself. I swear, he has become the most intrusive cat ever – always up in my business! I guess it’s just his way of giving approval. First check out her store to see the full collection of sewing and stationery items. If you like what you see, enter to win 1/2 yard of these three fabrics – one, two and three. Additionally, you could win cat d-clips and three owl plywood buttons (machine washable). To enter, follow Madalynne and Stitch Craft on Instagram. If you’re not on Instagram, totally cool. Just leave a comment below stating your contact information. A winner will be chosen on Monday, August 3. Last, contest is open internationally. Good luck!

Read More >>>

tags: cats, Construction, fabric Comments: 59