I received a lot of emails… from you! It’s not rare that I answer a few emails a week from my readers but over the past 7 days, my “to answer” folder has been brimming with questions. I answered one or two and three or four more would pop into my inbox. The questions were unexpected too. They varied from tips for starting a blog to a curriculum for a novice sewer and pitches for future posts. So motley were the questions, like a bag of M&Ms, that it made me think about the posts on this blog for the next couple of months. I am the queen of many things, especially a calendar, and topics for June and July have already been decided. But maybe there is something that you want  to learn about that I can help you with. If that’s the case, here’s your chance to speak up. Is there something you want to me to explain? Pattern making tips? 10 things about me? Construction rules?

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I thought this was my best bra but I was wrong – this is my best bra yet.

Not that I have enough projects to finish but when Ohhh Lulu released its new collection of bras and undies, Bambi caught my attention. Up until this point, all of the bras I had sewn were of cups/cradles variety. These types of bras present more of a fitting challenge than a soft bra/bralette and appeal to my masochistic pattern making side. It may sound weird but I love making a bra, it not fitting somewhere, and then going back to my manuals (Beverly Johnson’s or Norma’s) and figuring out why and how to correct the fit issue. That’s how I’ve learned so much over the past year – by trial and error. But in my day-to-day life, soft bras/bralettes make up about 60% of my intimates wardrobe. So to become a more well rounded bra maker, I gave Bambi a try.

The end result was an alarming, astonishing, and awe-inspring undergarment that was simple with a shot of brio. I didn’t expect it to be either. My intention going into this project was, sure, I’ll test it out, right a review, and get on with my other bra making toils and endeavors. But when I finished and took a step back to look at it, I thought, holy crap, I must make more; I need to make more! The fit is spot on too. This will be the perfect pairing for my summer tees and dresses.

 Because the suggested fabric is a woven, I chose a rigid galloon lace for the self and a 15-denier tricot for the lining. Technically, I didn’t need to line the bra (linings are used to stabilize cups and cradles, which are usually made with stretchy fabrics) but I chose to for comfort (tricot is softer than lace), to protect the delicate lace from wear and tear, and for coverage (so that it wouldn’t be as sheer).

 I used a 1/4″ elastic at the top and a 3/8″ elastic at the bottom of the bra. When I first started sewing lingerie, I used a picot edged elastic that’s was labeled as lingerie elastic. But the recovery on it is not good and after a few wearings and hand washings, it’s dead. When I inspected my RTW bras, I saw that the elastic used are much sturdier and have a tighter tension. I realized that in order to make a functional bra that can withstand movement throughout the day, body sweat, and multiple washings, you really need a good quality elastic like these. Since making this switch, my bras have not only performed better but they look less homemade.

I used the fabric’s wide scalloped edge as a design detail at the bottom of the bra. To accommodate the scallops, I extended the pattern and applied the elastic at 2 inches above the lowest point of the scallop. Do you see the side seams and the cup seam? No and because I “matched” the scallops at each seam. Go Maddie!

 The straps were upcycled from an Anthropologie bra I no longer wear. In my opinion, the pop of color makes the bra.

I’ve always had a hard time sewing a clean bartack when attaching the straps. So I was delighted to read an alternative method in Norma’s ebook - a box stitch. It’s much cleaner and much, much easier to sew. Plus, it gives a couture touch to the bra, don’t you think?

The back straps extend to the bottom of the elastic to provide better support. It would have been cleaner to insert it into the elastic but the orange would have been noticeable/visible on the exterior.

 Many of my soft bras finish the seams with tricot binding that is folded in the center and then applied. Even though I have a delicate hand when it comes to sewing, I struggled with creating this type of binding. I didn’t get frustrated though – the mass manufacturing world has a machine just for making binding – and I came up with another solution – I applied the binding using this technique.

 I still have not found a solution to skipped stitches when applying the hook and eye closure. I have tried every needle, thread, tension, and presser foot. Nothing works. I’ve been applying hooks and eyes with a straight stitch and to be honest, I don’t think it looks bad, homemade, or lesser quality. The hooks and eyes that I buy are finished at the top and bottom edge so that’s one less step for me.

What do you think? My best bra yet?

The post What I’ve Made: Ohhh Lulu Bra appeared first on Madalynne.

I began sewing lingerie about a year ago. Actually, I lied, I began thinking about sewing lingerie about a year ago. Sewing only woven fabrics up until that point, I had limited experience with elastic, hooks & eyes, tricot, ect. Yes, I worked in technical design for the two years prior and for one of those years, I handled intimates, but the information I learned about the product was theoretical – it was knowledge I learned from other tech designers and through the trade – not by actually sewing a bra and learning from mistakes.

Since last summer, I have picked up many tips and tricks through books, sew alongs, articles, and blogs. I have gained the most knowledge though by studying information, which even went as far as making flash cards that I flipped through during breakfast, lunch, or dinner, and then applying it to my projects. Beverly wrote in her manual that a scoop back band provides the most support – so I wrote it wrote it down, recited it over and over, and then did – I drafted a scoop back, sew up a bra, and wear tested it to see if she was correct. Knowledge to practice, knowledge to practice – that was and still is my motto.

My latest piece of knowledge was from Norma’s recently released Ebook, Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction. I discovered Norma and her brand, Orange Lingerie, a long time before I started following her. I don’t remember where or when that was – what I remember is when Amy interviewed her back in January and I clicked to her site and thought, “I know her!”

Norma, who sewed and designed from age 9 until she graduated from college, put the hobby aside to pursue a career in finance. In 2010, she left her position at a major Wall Street firm to study custom bra making (she attended Beverly Johnson’s Bra Making School!). Today, she owns Orange Lingerie, a custom made bra company that provides individually tailored bras. Through Norma’s precise measuring and fitting a close-to-perfect fitting bra is almost guaranteed.

Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been reading, rereading, and virtually highlighting (I love this feature of the Kindle) important snippets of her book. So much was covered in Beverly Johnson’s manual and because Norma studied under her, I was looking for overlapping information. But there wasn’t any. Because I have read many bra making books, the beginning was basic – the anatomy of a bra, tools used for sewing bras, and how a bra should fit. But that information is necessary to include because just like an introduction or a conclusion in an essay, it makes the rest of the book understandable to people who haven’t had as much experience as me. I got really deep into the book in the construction chapter. I’m still trying to fine tune my skills and I found a lot of information that I could put to practice (knowledge to practice – remember, that’s my motto). How to apply the elastic on a scoop back, how to draft a facing pattern for the bridge, how to ensure symmetry at the top of the bridge, and the stitch width of both the first and second pass of elastic – she covered all of this and more. One of my favorite tips, and I’m sure all of the OCD seamstresses out there will love this too, was, “…no one but you will examine the bra’s topstitching from under your sewists microscope. The only reason to tear out topsitching is if (a) there is an obvious fold or pucker in the fabric, (b) there is loose seam allowance on the wrong side of the fabric or (c) it looks bad from 3 feet away.” I’ve been reciting “three feet away” a lot because I have an unnecessary urge to make my topstitching perfect. Life and bras are so much easier at three feet away!

Norma’s book made me a more well-rounded bra maker but it is her that inspires me. She worked a 9-5 just as I do and threw it all in to pursue her passion. Not many people have the balls to do that and I commend her for it.

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Have you been asking yourself that lately, “What’s up with the jumper pattern?” In addition to the question “who am I?”, I ask this question every day.

The answer is it’s coming along.  I learned a huge lesson on sizing when I created my first pattern so I’m taking extra steps to ensure that this one fits many sizes, not just your children. Using the pattern for the jumper that Becky wore as a template, I made a few changes to it so that it would fit a variety of sizes (example: adding more shape in the hips, moving the bust darts, reshaping the front and back neckline). I fit that pattern on a fit model at work, who wears a size 6 (or small) in RTW, and then altered the pattern accordingly. The jumper you see in the photo above is the final fit sample/toile. Why didn’t I use muslin for the fabric? Because why they hell shouldn’t you use a cute fabric during the fitting process?

So onto grading I go. I’ve had and still have a few big projects that I’ve been working on since Amerson came out but those are coming to an end, which means I will be in full on jumper-pattern-mode for the next month or so.  I’m projecting a mid June/early July release date. Excited?

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was about not a whole lot. I could lie and say I had an exciting week but not much except the ordinary was going on. Don’t you love that about spring and summertime? That and the fact that it’s popsicle season! Life ebbs and flows slowly. It takes awhile for Friday to arrive but at the same time, Monday rolls around at an infinitesimal rate. To-do lists are tackled even if each bullet point contains an a), b), and c). There is even enough time to watch a movie during and play around on Instagram. I’m ending this week on the cusp of revealing some exciting things. Bras I’ve sewn (super cute ones too), books I’ve read, and interviews I’ve conducted – a lot has been hidden in my bag that’s about to spill over. The weekend is between now and then and I have visitors coming to town. On the agenda is a tour at a local brewery and… well… that’s as far as our plans go. I wonder if they want want to learn how to sew a bra (that is a joke, people)?

May I ask what you’re up to?

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Customer reviews, item descriptions, and technical specs – they all help when choosing an iron. Personally though, I trust the advice or testimonial of someone I know versus someone I don’t and who gave an online review. You never know what their situation is or was – they could have been drunk reviewing (you know… like drunk dialing or drunk texting). So what iron are other sewing ladies using? I’ll let them tell you (click on their names to be connected to their blogs)…

  I own the “Black & Decker: The Classic Steam/Dry Iron”, mainly because it’s a reproduction of an old vintage iron I found at an estate sale in LA. I love the weight of it but like it’s vintage ancestor, it spits out steam if you leave water in it for too long. So, it’s mostly a dry iron…

  My current iron is a Rowenta Focus. I purchased this iron because I’ve always had a pretty good experience with Rowentas and it’s one of the few irons without auto-shutoff. Personally I HATE auto-shutoff, I need that iron to be ready to roll for hours at a time. Unfortunately this is a home iron which means I burn through the heating components pretty quickly keeping it on for so long. Bummer.

My dream iron is a Sapporo Gravity Iron. This is the iron we use at work and it’s a dreamboat. It’s on 7 hours a day, 5 days a week and we’ve had the same one for at least the last 4 years – the one before it met it’s maker when it was dropped on the floor. These irons are meant for heavy duty pressing and they do an amazing job. The only reason I don’t have one is that you need to hang the water tank and I don’t have a permanent place to iron at the moment. As soon as I get a studio outside of my living space though, it’s on!

 I currently use a Rowenta Professional DX8800 iron. I don’t have a lot to compare it to (previously, I was using irons that I found in the dumpster at Vanderbilt – yep, crazy kids throwing away brand new stuff. Ugh!) but it is pretty amazing. My mom bought it for me as a birthday gift about 5-6 years ago after insisting that I upgrade from the dumpster irons. It’s not a cheap iron by any means but it has definitely held up quite well over the years. I really love the steam on it – it gives a HUGE burst of steam, and it gets super hot, really fast. It also has a nice weight – whether or not it has water in it – which is good for pressing seams. Not a huge fan of the auto shut-off feature, although I think it’s pretty par for the course when it comes to home irons. I also tend to forget to turn my iron off (I purposefully hooked it up to a power strip that also turns lights on/off so I’m reminded to shut it off when I’m done for the day. But… y’know… shit happens and I’m super forgetful) so it’s probably a good thing. It doesn’t take long to heat up after it shuts off, so that’s nice. I wish the water reservoir was bigger because I blast through it SO FAST since I steam everything. But I’ve tried the ones with a tank (my mom has one) and I don’t like the way the iron feels – it’s almost too light-weight and the sole plate feels weird. Maybe it’s just because I’m used to mine.

Eventually, I’d like to try a gravity-feed iron but that’s going to have to wait, at least until my current iron bites the dust. It’s starting to leak water so maybe that will be sooner than later! I don’t have any reason for wanting a gravity-feed other than I heard they are really awesome and that they look cool as shit. Ha!

 My iron and my sewing machine are my favorite sewing investments. I use a Reliable steam generator iron. I know that sounds hardcore! I saw a lot more of these types of irons when I was living in Europe–I don’t know why they haven’t caught on as much here. About four years ago I had a “last straw” moment with regular irons when my cheap Target-purchased iron spit all over a leather project (and I didn’t have the steam on). It totally ruined the handbag I was working on. And it was my first leather project, so you can imagine how frustrating that must have been! I had some Amazon gift cards saved up so I went for the steam generator after a lot of research. The actual iron itself is slim and is connected to a small boiler. I love that I have steam at any temperature–and very controlled steam. I always hated pressing before I bought this iron but I really love it now. I also use it as a steamer to preshrink things that can’t be washed (like wool or a silk on which I don’t wish to get wet–I don’t like how charmuese loses some of its shine after washing). As a steamer it’s genius. I can’t think of anything I don’t like about it. I’ve had it for four years now and no problems!

P.S. This is a sewing blogger from Montreal – I’ve been reading her blog for some time and she recently posted about this same iron, if you’re curious!

I still have a horrible, cheap iron that I bought in college at a thrift store 10 years ago.  I keep waiting for it to just die so that I can buy a new, fancy iron but of course, it just won’t.  Still, I dream of a nice iron and here are the things that are very important to me.

a – weight – I really think that a nice iron with a good amount of weight behind it makes a big difference.  Especially when hemming thick fabric like jeans. It’s only going to look professional if there is some serious weight behind the press.

b – auto shut-off – I know, a lot of sewers hate this feature, but for me it’s essential.  I am  notorious for leaving the iron on all day and with two small children running around, I need some back up.

c – mounting system – This one kinda goes with the last one but think about it.  Is there anything more dangerous than a heavy metal object that is pointy at one end, gets extremely hot, and has a long cord so it can easily be pulled on top of a child’s head?  I have nightmares just thinking about the possibilities.  So I need somewhere to set the iron so that it’s safer and less likely to fall over.

d – steam – There are two things about steam that I care about.  First that it steams well and doesn’t leak.  Secondly that the tank it large enough that I am not refilling it all of the time.  Such a bother.

OK I think that is my list.  I havn’t done enough research to know exactly what my dream iron looks like but I have always heard that Rowenta is the Bernina of irons.  Perhaps I should look into it more and put it on my Christmas list.

The post Irons: What Other Seamstresses Are Using appeared first on Madalynne.

I take pride in pressing and I follow almost all of the rules. I press throughout the course of a project (instead of at the end) and I use the right temperature settings for the fabric (instead of burning the crap out of each seam). I also lift and press instead of glide the iron, which is the difference between pressing and iron (super important to know seamstresses!). But do I know a lot about irons and their features? I don’t, or didn’t, have a clue until I started researching for this post.

Just like a microwave, the iron has a lot of hidden tools that can be beneficial to seamstresses (I use the example of a microwave because how many of you use the popcorn button for way more than popcorn?). Learning about the neat tricks of each, I’m about to make a mad dash to Target for an upgrade. Yes, I have a lousy (and sometimes lazy) iron – a Shark.

Before getting into features, let’s talk money. A home iron in the $50-100 price range works just as well as a $250 ironing system. But stay away from anything under $40, especially if it’s labeled as lightweight. It’s cheap and will not have many of the essential features needed for sewing. Even Megan agrees with me on this one. She recommends the Black and Decker D2030 (pictured top left).

 Searching for information for this post, I asked other sewing bloggers what irons they used. Marci, always one to have a clever response – even if she doesn’t know it, said that she uses a Black and Decker that she bought at an estate sale. Her iron is a reproduction of a vintage iron and has a nice weight to it – it’s heavy.

Weight – it is something to think about when purchasing. The latest models are built to be light, weighing between 3-4 lbs, but this might not be a good thing. I have an old sewing iron that has spent the last three years in the closet and when Marci brought up the subject of weight and irons, I brought it out to test press a seam. The heaviness of the it made it a lot easier to press the seam, which was sewn using a thick fabric – wool houndstooth. Vintage irons are super cheap and with summer reaching this side of the equator (sorry Aussie folks), you can pick one up for less than $10 bucks at a yard sale. In this case, spending that amount of money on an iron is okay because this will be an extra iron that is used for seams that need the extra weight more than the extra features. Also, and just like Laurie said, many vintage irons are dry irons, meaning they don’t emit steam – which is good when your iron gets snooty and snotty. They also get a lot hotter than modern day irons, which is a huge plus when it comes to pressing and ironing linen and cottons.

Some hate this feature and some love it. Almost all modern day irons automatically shut off if they haven’t been used for a long period of time. Don’t hate on this feature. It’s like auto insurance – you don’t need it most of the time but when you do, it’s a life saver.

Folks, there is a lot to learn about steam. Steam is essential for a seamstress. It is used for fusing, shaping, and fine tailoring. Steam can be shot vertically or horizontally and steam can be pressured or surged into fabrics. Irons with vents at the tip of the sole plate only give a burst of steam. Yes, it gives off steam but there is less control over the direction of the steam – it simply shoots horizontally. Irons with vents placed throughout the sole plate push steam into the garment, which is needed in order for interfacing to stick and for garments to take shape (side note: irons should be used on an ironing board that allows steam to pass through the surface, otherwise moisture will collect underneath the garment). Also, irons with vertical steam capabilities, such as the Rowenta DW8080 (pictured bottom right) and DW5080 (pictured bottom left), allow you to steam hanging garments.

Is an iron with a separate reservoir or chamber necessary? Does it make an iron better? Although it holds more water and creates steam under more pressure, the difference between and iron and ironing system, or one withe a separate container for water, is insignificant. In my opinion, you can save a ton of money by choosing an iron without this feature.

In sewing, the term press rather than iron is used. To press means to move the iron up and down in a lifting and pressing movement. Ironing, which is done after clothes are washed to remove wrinkles and creases, means to slide, or glide, the iron across the fabric with a back and forth motion. Ironing may distort the shape of the garment; pressing won’t. Also, pressing builds shape and structure while constructing a garment, flatten seams, fuses interfacing, and even sets pleats.

A widely accepted rule in sewing is “press as you go,” which means to first press a seam before crossing another. This doesn’t mean you have to be at the ironing board as much as you are in front of the sewing machine. Work on several different sections of the garment at the same time, sewing as far as you can on each section, and then press.

Just like choosing a sewing machine, choose an iron based on your needs. Don’t have the money to spend on a $100+ iron? Then don’t. Or maybe you don’t sew enough that you can warrant buying an iron that is labeled “eco intelligent” (pictured top right). That’s okay, it’s not essential. But if you have the cash to buy an iron with a separate reservoir, good for you! Because it holds a lot of water, you’ll spend less time filling more more time pressing, shaping, or interfacing your garment.

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Two weeks ago, I hosted a giveaway of the book Streamlined Irons where contestants were asked to submit their best iron stories (example: burn a hole through the carpet). When I sent the names and addresses of the three winners to Jay, the author of the book, he asked if I was going to post about the winner’s stories. Duh! Why didn’t I think of that?! So here are the winners and their tales. If you have a story that can top theirs, let’s hear it!

  “Oh irons, what would we do without you?? I’m constantly asking my husband if I can iron his shirts. I’ve, luckily, never been burnt by my iron. But one time I had the ironing board set up with the iron set on top, full heat and steam going, when out of the corner of my eye I saw the ironing board beginning to collapse. I don’t know how I did it, but I crossed the room at lightning speed and caught the board underneath to support it, then stood that way for a good while trying to figure out what to do. If the iron fell I’d be burned! I ended up doing this weird kind of slow dance, snake charmer thing, as I slowly guided the ironing board, and balanced iron, down to the floor. Kinda wish someone had been watching so they could tell me how ridiculous I looked!!”

 ”I have to admit that since I’ve started sewing I have left the iron on overnight on more than one occasion! So dangerous – we’re lucky I didn’t burn the place down! I quite like ironing – always have and since sewing it’s only gotten worse because you can see how much ironing and pressing can affect the look of a garment.”

 ”I am one of those rare people who like ironing. Get the ironing board set up in front of the TV, pick out some DVD’s and get to it.

My favorite ironing story, there are a few. A friend of my husband’s lived with us for a few months and I would iron his shirts along with my husbands (he had never worn an ironed shirt before and loved the way they looked). Several months later (after he moved out), he dropped by after work and I commented on his shirt being ironed. He told me it wasn’t but that all his poly cotton shirts now looked ironed after being removed from the dryer. In effect I had “improved” his permanent press shirts.

My favourite iron, a 1957 General Electric iron I found at a garage sale in the original box with the warranty card. It is a non steam iron and gets a lot hotter than any other iron I have ever owned. Perfect for ironing linen and cotton. I love this iron and live in dread of the day it dies.”

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about the start of Me-Made-May, the month long commitment to wear self stitched garments throughout the month of May. As I wrote on Facebook, I am not participating in it because if I did, I would be wearing either ball gowns or lingerie for thirty days. One commenter said, “we see nothing wrong with this….” and they were absolutely right. As long as I wear the ball gowns over the lingerie, I’m good to go!

I respect and admire those that can participate in MMM. I have a busy day job that keeps me from churning out more than a couple of garments a year. Mind you, my projects are usually extravagant, but I barely come close to double digits. So the fact that some people have a full thirty day’s worth of self-made clothes in their closets impresses me! Bethany, Marci, Nette, and all the other ladies participating out there… you rock!

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Last week, light was shed on my secluded little life. As part of story (or post) for work, I interviewed Roger Gastman, the curator of an installation currently on display at our home offices. A graffitti artist during his teenage years, Roger switched focus from artist to collector, collecting music posters from the Go-Go scene, a world renowned punk and hardcore music scene where graffiti ruled. As part of one of his answers, he touched upon the history of graffiti. Technically, graffiti, or writings and drawings that are put on the surface of a public place, originated in Ancient Greece and Egypt. But modern day graffiti began… where… Philadelphia! In the 1960s, artists such as Cool Earl and Cornbread bombed the city with their tags. Ahhh… so that explains the murals around town!

Just like Karen wrote, most of us wear many hats. My main hobby is sewing but that doesn’t mean I’m not into other forms of art. Actually, I find most of my inspiration for sewing from other forms of art. So even though Roger and his installation have nothing to do with SPI, interfacing, or stretch factors, he still inspires me. You never know how this interview will seep into my sewing life.

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