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Tutorial: How To Piece Lace

lace-braletteToday I am sharing a quick tutorial on how I underlined and pieced together the lace for the bodice on Maxine. It’s not super difficult – just a few steps that are much easier to show via pictures rather than words. Also, I didn’t want it to get lost in the last post, so I saved it until today so I could dedicate an entire post to the process. Okay, ready? Here we go.

The first step was to figure out the design – where I wanted the scallop edges to overlap and where I wanted the underlined portion to end. I was going for a no-visible-nipple look, so I decided above the bust point and drew a horizontal line on the pattern just above the apex. Then, I cut two equal lengths of lace and underlined one with white jersey knit. To underline, I used Odif’s 505 to spray baste together, and then cut just inside the scallop edges using an 18mm rotary cutter. After, I overlapped the two laces so that the high point of one scallop aligned with the low point of the other scallop. I don’t like using pins – it distorts fabric, especially fine fabrics such as lace – so I used a washable glue stick to adhere the two strips. Then, I used a zigzag stitch and sewed a straight line from one end to the other. After, I cut cut out the bodice pattern. What I like most about this finish is that the edge of the jersey is sandwiched between the two lace layers, so it doesn’t have to be finished with a serge/overlock.

See, it ain’t so hard! Got any tips of your own? Share how you piece lace together in the comments below!

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6 Comments

  1. Reply

    Julie Lautens

    Hi Maddie – I am really enjoying digging through your past posts and appreciate the sloper tutorials very much! I’m curious if gluing lace onto a non-cotton fabric could work. For example, would you use a glue to attach a fabric like charmeuse to heavy lace for a dress? or would you stick with hand basting?

    • Reply

      maddie

      Thanks Julie! Glad the sloper tutorial can help you!

      I can’t speak from personal experience, but I believe using a machine washable/temporary glue like Odif’s or Elmers would work with attaching lace to charmeuse. It’s not permanent and replaces pinning. Pinning can definitely shift fabric, especially a fabric like charmeuse.

  2. Reply

    embroiderpiccies

    What gorgeous lace Maddie. And as always, beautiful clear instructions

    • Reply

      maddie

      Crystal clear!

  3. Reply

    Nadezhda

    Maddie, :-*! nice and gently method.

  4. Reply

    Genesis

    Hi, Maddie. I really enjoyed this article. The Zigzag stitch is perfect for getting a good result. Thank you for sharing it.

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