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What I Made: Sawyer (Madalynne X Simplicity 8229 Remix)

black bra

I know, I know, I sound like a broken record in every introduction of a ‘What I Made’ post. I said it at the beginning of Amari, that fabulously flared burnt orange bodysuit, and I’ll say it again. I don’t know how the heck I squeezed out this me-made. Unlike Amari, this number wasn’t a spontaneous make. Oh no, no, no. The version you see here is numero tres. Third times a charm yo! Can you believe it’s a version of the Madalynne X Simplicity 8229?

lingerie inspiration

Inspiration:

You can thank Agent Provacateur for inspiring this project. The brand is one of my top go-to’s for inspo. Their designs are killer, their price points are too. Retailing at $675, The Christalina Bra features embroidered lace and black elastic strapping encrusted with Swarovski crystals. It may be that each crystal costs a pretty penny, but what isn’t a maybe is that I got a better deal, and fit, on my me-made. And let’s not even talk about the model’s facial expression in the product photo. Weird.

Fabric + Trims:

Bra:
Inner and outer cups: outer layer is black galloon stretch lace from Tailor Made Shop and inner layer is polylaminate / cut + sew foam
Back band:  black galloon stretch lace from Tailor Made Shop, unlined
Frame: black galloon stretch lace lined with sheer cup lining, both from Tailor Made Shop
3/8″ black picot plush elastic (for upper back band and underarm) from Tailor Made Shop
3/4″ black picot plush elastic (for bottom back band and frame) from Bra Makers Supply
3/8″ nude channeling (for wire and side seam) from Tailor Made Shop
1/4″ black strap elastic from Bra Makers Supply
3/4″ ring from Tailor Made Shop
2×3 hook and eye from Tailor Made Shop

Panty:
Front/back panels: black galloon stretch lace from Tailor Made Shop, unlined (same as bra)
3/8″ black pink picot elastic from Tailor Made Shop
Black cotton jersey from Fleishman Fabrics

Pattern + Construction:

When I designed the 8229 pattern for Simplicity, my goal was to create a basic underwire style that could be easily altered to make many different styles. This project says mission accomplished. All pattern and sewingchanges/additions/comments below. Note that I cut a size 32B.

Pattern

  • Reduce height of back band at center back to be 1.25″ (30mm) to accommodate a 2×3 hook and eye.
  • Created separate patterns for the inner and outer cups for the polylaminate/cut+sew foam. I removed the seam allowances at the vertical cup seam and underarm. Removing the SA at the underarm wasn’t necessary, but reduced bulk when attaching the elastic.
  • Added a notch on the wire seam line approximately 2.75″ below center front for first strap placement.
  • Lowered the rise on the panty so that the side seam measured 3″
  • If I were to make another version, I would shave off ¼”- ⅜” at outer cup at the strap placement, blending to 0″ at the wire seam so that the outer strap would properly angle towards the center front ring. On this version, it curves up and then over. It’s not very noticeable, so I’m cool with how it is currently. Still totally wearable and doesn’t affect fit or comfort.

Sewing

  • Just like elastic, there is a fear of sewing polylaminate / cut and seam foam. No really, it’s a breeze. You don’t need any special tools, thread or machines. Yes, there is an extra step, but I demonstrate how to sew and finish in video tutorial.
  • Because bottom edge of bra is a scalloped lace, I finished with ¾” picot elastic on inside. With wrong side of bra facing up, I laid picot elastic down with fuzzy side facing up and picot edge pointing inwards/towards the bra. Sewed with a 3 step zig zag stitch, 4.5 stitch width / 1.3 stitch length on my PFAFF Passport 2.0
  • Inserted the inner and center straps at an angle. This is why I made 2 muslins/practice bras. It took 2 attempts to get the placement, length + angle correct. I also added vertical tacks at apex and top of cup on middle strap and top of cup for inner strap to prevent it from shifting while wearing.
  • Used skinny tape to finished top edge of the front waist and back leg opening on the panty. It is very difficult to sew because it moves around a lot, but really helps the lace to grip your body and not stretch out over time.

Want to see more of my sewing projects? Click here for all my lingerie projects!

black brablack brablack bra black brablack bra black bra black brablack brablack bra sawyer-18-web

10 Comments

  1. Reply

    Zoe

    The whole set is just gorgeous! Better than the inspiration even. One question – when you say you finished the scallop edge on the panties with ‘skinny tape’ what do you mean? A narrow twill-type cotton tape (non-stretch) or a narrow elastic or something else? I have made panties with the same edge and had trouble with them.

  2. Reply

    susan

    Such a beautiful ensemble. Thank you for sharing your inspirations. As this has helped with getting me started on a new direction of sewing lingerie. I wish I lived closer, then I could come to sit in on a class. Looks like you have a wonderful time from what I see on your IG posts. Thank you, keep up the wonderful work.

  3. Reply

    Elizabeth

    Completely stunning and inspiring! Thanks for sharing.

    • Reply

      maddie

      Oh please! Thank YOU for inspiring me 🙂

  4. Reply

    Luigina

    I am new to sewing lingerie. Thank you for sharing your beautiful work. You have inspired me to continue sewing me-made bras, and I plan to cut out another pattern tomorrow. Thank you again.

    • Reply

      maddie

      You’re welcome. Good luck!

  5. Reply

    Kassi Kasinger

    I’ve been wanting to make a bra that would work with Sewaholic’s Lonsdale dress for sometime. I think this would do very nicely.

    • Reply

      maddie

      I think so too! I love Sewaholic’s patterns.

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