We have serious things to chat about today, and by serious, I mean crotch linings. I’m sure, almost positive, that after reading the word crotch several times and looking at all the prettiness of crotch linings, you’ll be dying to make a pair of panties. DYING…
Crotch linings are the unglamorous side of sewing panties, or knickers, or whatever kind of underthings you call them. I’ve wanted to skip this step so many times. Almost always, crotch linings are made of cotton jersey, not anything poly, because it breathes. Cotton jersey can be difficult to handle though. It can stretch out of shape and shift out of place. I use a couple ways to make it easier to sew, which I’m sharing today, so nobody goes crotch lining less. There are so many ways to attach a crotch lining – this is just one way – and I’m not claiming that I am the first to use the following method.
Note: I have used the word crotch 7 times so far.
Below is how I attach, and the pictures that follow are in order of construction steps. Note that I am using a black textured lycra from Jomar underlined with nude stretch mesh from Bra Makers Supply for the panty, and a white cotton jersey for the crotch lining from Fleishman Fabrics.
- Cut out front and back panty and trace crotch lining onto a rectangular or square piece of cotton jersey.
- Sew front and back panty together at crotch seam.
- Serge front and back edges of crotch lining. If you had cut the crotch lining and then serged, most likely, it will stretch out of shape. At least that’s always been the case with me. To prevent, I trace, then serge so that if any stretching happens, I can recut to the original pattern shape.
- After, I cut the left and right sides of the crotch lining, removing the seam allowances (usually 1/4″). When attaching elastic at the leg opening, it can get bulky where the crotch lining is. Many times, I have a hard time making it over the “hump” where the crotch lining begins and thus get skipped stitches. By removing the seam allowances, I reduce one ply/layer of fabric. Seriously, this step is the difference between getting skipped stitches and not.
- Last, I use temporary spray adhesive to attach crotch lining to panty. I push the crotch seam allowance forward and then place the crotch lining so that it extends 1/4″ (width of the seam) behind the seam. This not only conceals the seam allowances, but reduces bulk. The common method for attaching a crotch lining is to sew it into the crotch seam, but my problem with that way is that all those seam allowances are pushed forward, and when I attach the elastic at the legs, again, I have a hard time getting over the hump.
- Attach elastic at leg opening + waist, and finish panty according to that style/design.
Does this make sense? How do you attach crotch linings? Maybe you have an even better way!
Note: I have used the word crotch 21 times.