Category: Pattern Making

What I Made: Blake

If you missed Monday’s post, I’m switching up my game plan for sewing lingerie and if you don’t want to click back, I’ll bring you up to speed now. For about a year up until I went to Paris, I had this thing against buying ready-to-wear lingerie. My thinking was similar to Me-Made-May’s mission– to motivate me to sew more, to push me to wear the intimates I made, to use leftover fabric and to celebrate the hard work I put into crafting unique, one of a kind pieces. My intentions were good, but it wasn’t conducive to me learning more about bra making. When I was shopping in Paris, I inspected trims, felt fabric and looked at the different hardware. From that buying trip, I learned A LOT of new techniques. So, I’m going to start buying from the market, replicating techniques I like and developing my own to make something that’s me. This is the second of two bras I posted this week. F a b r i c + T r i m s Front and back (one piece): light blue lycra from Fleishman Fabrics underlined with white lace from Tailor Made Shop. I used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together prior to cutting. I treated the layers as one going forward. 3/8” white plush/picot elastic for underarm, center front and center back edges from Arte Crafts 3/4” white firm band elastic for the bottom band from Bra Makers Supply 1/8” white decorative strap elastic for bra wings from Bra Makers Supply 1/2″ white strap elastic from Tailor Made Shop 1/2” silver rings and sliders from Bra Makers Supply P a t t e r n  +  C o n s t r u c t i o n For the most part, construction…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, madalynne studios, Pattern Making Comments: 9

Sway Back Adjustment on Undies

Today, I’m showing you a super simple pattern alteration that I’ve carried over from “normal” garment to lingerie – a sway back adjustment. Sway back adjustment? Say whaattt?? If you have never heard the term – it is an exaggerated inward curve at the lower back waist, right above your… I’ll keep in PG and not say ass on the blog… woops! Right above your buttocks is what I meant to say. If you’ve ever had a dress pool and wrinkle across the back like the first two images in this post, then you need a sway back adjustment. I was a gymnast, and I am now a total yogi, so I always make this adjustment if a garment – dress, blouse or pant – is close fitting in that area. I have a standard high-waisted underwear pattern that serves as my block, but since lingerie is extremely fabric dependent, I know that I will have to “scoop out” the center back at least somewhat depending on the amount of stretch it has. Don’t know what I mean? Hopefully, you’ll understand once I go through the steps below. The first step is to make the pair of underwear in the final fabric. Because undies take up so little fabric, I don’t worry too much that it might go to waste. Then, I try on the undie and pin out the wrinkles that are pooling at the center back, which usually tapers to nothing at the side seam. Then, I measure the amount I pinned out and transfer it to the pattern. How do I do this? On the pattern, I measure down from the original center back waistline equal to the amount I pinned out (remember to double the number since you pinned on the fold!). Using a French ruler,…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making, tutorial Comments: 2

Your Mallori Lane’s

I released Mallori Lane to gauge if there was interest in simple, modern bra/bralette patterns. It was based on a me-made bralette, and I launched it about a month ago. So far, I am thrilled with the feedback I’ve received, not to mention the beautiful bras you ladies are making! High five, snaps and mad props! Ying sewed a black one for her coworker, and eliminated the bottom band for an even simpler design. Marilla and Lauren are two others who sewed their own, both equally fantastic. The sequin version was by Stephanie using fabric I shipped to her all the way in UK. The biggest callout was that the instructions and pattern didn’t have the nuts and bolts a “real pattern” would. I agree. There was a lot that I left out (i.e. notches for strap placement, detailed construction photos, etc.) but that’s because it was simply an experiment/test. I specified that it wouldn’t be included, but I still had faith that any sewer could make it. Stephanie had no bra making experience. Good news for me and you, I think their is a market and need for these types of patterns. Developing patterns is a commitment, but I’m happy to it on if it’s worth it. It’s fulfilling to see my designs worn by other women. Now, whether I offer home sewing patterns or an actual collection of bras for sale is still something I’m teetering between. To all the other ladies who have made a Mallori Lane, you rock! Thank you for supporting me. If you haven’t made one, click here to learn more and download the pattern. And be sure to check out the hash tag #mallorilane and #bramakingwithmadalynne on Instagram for more images!

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making Comments: 2

What I Made: Nicole Warner

I have a feeling you’re getting sick of seeing this bra as well as the play on names. I made the first iteration in February; it was based on Handmade by Elma’s KITRI bra and became my favorite piece. When I made the third iteration, Nellie Warner, I realized that although it was super comfortable, it wasn’t flattering. I liked the racer back, but the front was too sports bra. It was slightly masculine and I wanted something feminine. So, I asked your thoughts, and with your them in mind, I made this version, Nicole Warner. Why spend so much time on the fit? Well, I recently emailed a fellow bra maker that I feel lucky to know – Christina of Fortnight Lingerie. When I first starting making bras and undies, she allowed me to interview her, and it was cool for a little guy like me to get a peek into her world. During our recent conversation, she gave me some advice as I grow my bra making – start small with a tight offering and refine fit and fabrics. I talked about how important I think it is to hone in on my aesthetic last week, and this is just another reminder. Have I finally nailed the fit with Nicole? I think there are still minor tweaks, but I’m a lot closer than I was before. Additionally, I want to test how well this silhouette translates into different fabrics. Center front, side front and back: metallic lycra lined with stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together prior to cutting. Bottom band: black stretch scalloped lace with metallic thread detailing (Tailor Made Shop) underlined with same metallic lycra above. 3/8” firm elastic at racerback, underarm and neck (Bra Makers Supply) 1/4” strap elastic (Bra Makers Supply) Cutting was standard…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making Comments: 16

Mallori Lane: A Free PDF Pattern + Bra Kits + Custom Bra Orders

As I become more involved in bra making, I’m wearing less and less handmade garments. Sigh. Truth is, there are only 24 hours in a day and I simply can’t make it all. I’m okay with that because I have some pretty darn fancy lace on my sewing table constantly. What bra am I grabbing day in and day out? Other than Nina and Nellie Warner, it’s Mallori Lane. Which one I pick depends on the blouse I’m wearing that day. It’s not just me who likes this style. I’ve had many requests from friends and coworkers who don’t know how to sew to make them one. I made one for my manager! This interest pushed me to create a free PDF pattern so that you can make your own. It’s is available in limited sizes – xx-small through large – and meant for cup sizes A-B because there is no shaping via a seam or shirring. No, that’s not vanity sizing. I am the smallest size with a full bust measurement of 31″ and I want to offer a modern bra pattern for other petite women. Also, because it’s free, the pattern doesn’t come with the bells and whistles most other indies offer. There is a size chart, simple construction steps, and visuals that provide enough information to make the bra, but there won’t be a sew-along, blog tour, etc. I have total faith that you can make it! The trickiest part is attaching the elastic to the top BACK band before sewing it to the FRONT band. So read the construction steps carefully! The purpose of this release is to be a gauge of whether I should release future patterns. Selling patterns is a huge commitment. Although I’d love to see other women in my designs, if there’s no market for it,…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making Comments: 29

What I Made: Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Just like Cloth Habit’s Watson Bra, it seems like everyone has made Merckwaerdigh’s BHS10. There are numerous reviews on Pattern Review. I’ve been meaning to make one, it was on my list when I wrote about building a bra wardrobe, but well, life and other bra making got in the way. Merckweardigh BHS10 is a mix of 5 different bras – a soft bra which can also be used as a bikini top, a luxury sport bra, a laced soft bra, an all lace underwired bra and a smooth padded bra. I made the luxury sports bra (the one at the upper left hand corner on the pattern envelope). Upper cup, lower cup, side front and racerback: 5 1/2” teal and white galloon stretch lace (Arte Crafts), lined with stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting. Center front: same stretch lace as rest of bra, but lined with 15 denier tricot (Bra Makers Supply) 3/8” plush/picot elastic at racerback, under arm (Bra Makers Supply) 3/4” plush/picot elastic at bottom band (Bra Makers Supply) 1/4” soft/picot elastic at neck (picot was cut off – read below) I’ve been looking for a soft, 1/8”- 1/4” elastic with no picot to use on the top edge of the upper cup with a scallop lace. I’ve seen it on RTW bras, but can’t find a vendor that sells it. The only kind I’ve seen is knitted elastic, which is not soft and is meant to be encased in a tunnel or turned under. I could have not lined the upper cut, but I like the additional support of the mesh. I also could have used clear elastic, but it’s really difficult to sew and in my opinion, looks handmade. So, I cut off the picot…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making, What I've Made Comments: 1