Category: Pattern Making

Your Mallori Lane’s

I released Mallori Lane to gauge if there was interest in simple, modern bra/bralette patterns. It was based on a me-made bralette, and I launched it about a month ago. So far, I am thrilled with the feedback I’ve received, not to mention the beautiful bras you ladies are making! High five, snaps and mad props! Ying sewed a black one for her coworker, and eliminated the bottom band for an even simpler design. Marilla and Lauren are two others who sewed their own, both equally fantastic. The sequin version was by Stephanie using fabric I shipped to her all the way in UK. The biggest callout was that the instructions and pattern didn’t have the nuts and bolts a “real pattern” would. I agree. There was a lot that I left out (i.e. notches for strap placement, detailed construction photos, etc.) but that’s because it was simply an experiment/test. I specified that it wouldn’t be included, but I still had faith that any sewer could make it. Stephanie had no bra making experience. Good news for me and you, I think their is a market and need for these types of patterns. Developing patterns is a commitment, but I’m happy to it on if it’s worth it. It’s fulfilling to see my designs worn by other women. Now, whether I offer home sewing patterns or an actual collection of bras for sale is still something I’m teetering between. To all the other ladies who have made a Mallori Lane, you rock! Thank you for supporting me. If you haven’t made one, click here to learn more and download the pattern. And be sure to check out the hash tag #mallorilane and #bramakingwithmadalynne on Instagram for more images!

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making Comments: 2

What I Made: Nicole Warner

I have a feeling you’re getting sick of seeing this bra as well as the play on names. I made the first iteration in February; it was based on Handmade by Elma’s KITRI bra and became my favorite piece. When I made the third iteration, Nellie Warner, I realized that although it was super comfortable, it wasn’t flattering. I liked the racer back, but the front was too sports bra. It was slightly masculine and I wanted something feminine. So, I asked your thoughts, and with your them in mind, I made this version, Nicole Warner. Why spend so much time on the fit? Well, I recently emailed a fellow bra maker that I feel lucky to know – Christina of Fortnight Lingerie. When I first starting making bras and undies, she allowed me to interview her, and it was cool for a little guy like me to get a peek into her world. During our recent conversation, she gave me some advice as I grow my bra making – start small with a tight offering and refine fit and fabrics. I talked about how important I think it is to hone in on my aesthetic last week, and this is just another reminder. Have I finally nailed the fit with Nicole? I think there are still minor tweaks, but I’m a lot closer than I was before. Additionally, I want to test how well this silhouette translates into different fabrics. Center front, side front and back: metallic lycra lined with stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together prior to cutting. Bottom band: black stretch scalloped lace with metallic thread detailing (Tailor Made Shop) underlined with same metallic lycra above. 3/8” firm elastic at racerback, underarm and neck (Bra Makers Supply) 1/4” strap elastic (Bra Makers Supply) Cutting was standard…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making Comments: 16

Mallori Lane: A Free PDF Pattern + Bra Kits + Custom Bra Orders

As I become more involved in bra making, I’m wearing less and less handmade garments. Sigh. Truth is, there are only 24 hours in a day and I simply can’t make it all. I’m okay with that because I have some pretty darn fancy lace on my sewing table constantly. What bra am I grabbing day in and day out? Other than Nina and Nellie Warner, it’s Mallori Lane. Which one I pick depends on the blouse I’m wearing that day. It’s not just me who likes this style. I’ve had many requests from friends and coworkers who don’t know how to sew to make them one. I made one for my manager! This interest pushed me to create a free PDF pattern so that you can make your own. It’s is available in limited sizes – xx-small through large – and meant for cup sizes A-B because there is no shaping via a seam or shirring. No, that’s not vanity sizing. I am the smallest size with a full bust measurement of 31″ and I want to offer a modern bra pattern for other petite women. Also, because it’s free, the pattern doesn’t come with the bells and whistles most other indies offer. There is a size chart, simple construction steps, and visuals that provide enough information to make the bra, but there won’t be a sew-along, blog tour, etc. I have total faith that you can make it! The trickiest part is attaching the elastic to the top BACK band before sewing it to the FRONT band. So read the construction steps carefully! The purpose of this release is to be a gauge of whether I should release future patterns. Selling patterns is a huge commitment. Although I’d love to see other women in my designs, if there’s no market for it,…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making Comments: 26

What I Made: Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Just like Cloth Habit’s Watson Bra, it seems like everyone has made Merckwaerdigh’s BHS10. There are numerous reviews on Pattern Review. I’ve been meaning to make one, it was on my list when I wrote about building a bra wardrobe, but well, life and other bra making got in the way. Merckweardigh BHS10 is a mix of 5 different bras – a soft bra which can also be used as a bikini top, a luxury sport bra, a laced soft bra, an all lace underwired bra and a smooth padded bra. I made the luxury sports bra (the one at the upper left hand corner on the pattern envelope). Upper cup, lower cup, side front and racerback: 5 1/2” teal and white galloon stretch lace (Arte Crafts), lined with stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting. Center front: same stretch lace as rest of bra, but lined with 15 denier tricot (Bra Makers Supply) 3/8” plush/picot elastic at racerback, under arm (Bra Makers Supply) 3/4” plush/picot elastic at bottom band (Bra Makers Supply) 1/4” soft/picot elastic at neck (picot was cut off – read below) I’ve been looking for a soft, 1/8”- 1/4” elastic with no picot to use on the top edge of the upper cup with a scallop lace. I’ve seen it on RTW bras, but can’t find a vendor that sells it. The only kind I’ve seen is knitted elastic, which is not soft and is meant to be encased in a tunnel or turned under. I could have not lined the upper cut, but I like the additional support of the mesh. I also could have used clear elastic, but it’s really difficult to sew and in my opinion, looks handmade. So, I cut off the picot…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making, What I've Made Comments: 1

The Difference Between a Full and Partial Band Bra + How To Convert

I’ve sewn mostly full band bras, but I’m currently experimenting with a partial band style. The project has me going back to two posts I wrote about the difference between a partial band and a full band bra. I’ve learned a lot since, and there are some updates I’d like to make to that post. First is a clearer graphic that will hopefully explain the difference a little better. The measurements were also incorrect. I have deleted old posts since the information was not right and I’m fixing now. And don’t think that I’m moving away from soft bras like Nina Warner! They are still my favorite silhouette and I see myself going that route in the future, but this partial brand is just a fun little project. The pattern for a partial band and a full band bra are not the same, meaning you cannot sew the cups from a partial band bra into the frame of a full band bra. You also can’t decide mid-sewing to change a partial band bra to a full band bra or vice versa. In both cases, a pattern alteration is necessary. The only pattern piece that is interchangeable are the straps, and that’s assuming you have fabric straps and not elastic straps (elastic straps don’t require a pattern piece). A full band bra is a bra in which the cups are sewn into a frame, and a partial band bra is a bra in which there is no frame and the band and the bridge are separate pieces. For both styles, the wire line sits at the base of the breast, which is indicated by the lighter blue line in the figure above, but the position of the cup seam is different depending on the style. Briefly put, the cups for a partial band bra are bigger than the cups for a full band bra to account…

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tags: bra making, Construction, lingerie, Pattern Making Comments: 13