Category: Pattern Making

Mallori Lane: A Free PDF Pattern + Bra Kits + Custom Bra Orders

As I become more involved in bra making, I’m wearing less and less handmade garments. Sigh. Truth is, there are only 24 hours in a day and I simply can’t make it all. I’m okay with that because I have some pretty darn fancy lace on my sewing table constantly. What bra am I grabbing day in and day out? Other than Nina and Nellie Warner, it’s Mallori Lane. Which one I pick depends on the blouse I’m wearing that day. It’s not just me who likes this style. I’ve had many requests from friends and coworkers who don’t know how to sew to make them one. I made one for my manager! This interest pushed me to create a free PDF pattern so that you can make your own. It’s is available in limited sizes – xx-small through large – and meant for cup sizes A-B because there is no shaping via a seam or shirring. No, that’s not vanity sizing. I am the smallest size with a full bust measurement of 31″ and I want to offer a modern bra pattern for other petite women. Also, because it’s free, the pattern doesn’t come with the bells and whistles most other indies offer. There is a size chart, simple construction steps, and visuals that provide enough information to make the bra, but there won’t be a sew-along, blog tour, etc. I have total faith that you can make it! The trickiest part is attaching the elastic to the top BACK band before sewing it to the FRONT band. So read the construction steps carefully! The purpose of this release is to be a gauge of whether I should release future patterns. Selling patterns is a huge commitment. Although I’d love to see other women in my designs, if there’s no market for it,…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making Comments: 25

What I Made: Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Just like Cloth Habit’s Watson Bra, it seems like everyone has made Merckwaerdigh’s BHS10. There are numerous reviews on Pattern Review. I’ve been meaning to make one, it was on my list when I wrote about building a bra wardrobe, but well, life and other bra making got in the way. Merckweardigh BHS10 is a mix of 5 different bras – a soft bra which can also be used as a bikini top, a luxury sport bra, a laced soft bra, an all lace underwired bra and a smooth padded bra. I made the luxury sports bra (the one at the upper left hand corner on the pattern envelope). Upper cup, lower cup, side front and racerback: 5 1/2” teal and white galloon stretch lace (Arte Crafts), lined with stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting. Center front: same stretch lace as rest of bra, but lined with 15 denier tricot (Bra Makers Supply) 3/8” plush/picot elastic at racerback, under arm (Bra Makers Supply) 3/4” plush/picot elastic at bottom band (Bra Makers Supply) 1/4” soft/picot elastic at neck (picot was cut off – read below) I’ve been looking for a soft, 1/8”- 1/4” elastic with no picot to use on the top edge of the upper cup with a scallop lace. I’ve seen it on RTW bras, but can’t find a vendor that sells it. The only kind I’ve seen is knitted elastic, which is not soft and is meant to be encased in a tunnel or turned under. I could have not lined the upper cut, but I like the additional support of the mesh. I also could have used clear elastic, but it’s really difficult to sew and in my opinion, looks handmade. So, I cut off the picot…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making, What I've Made Comments: 1

The Difference Between a Full and Partial Band Bra + How To Convert

I’ve sewn mostly full band bras, but I’m currently experimenting with a partial band style. The project has me going back to two posts I wrote about the difference between a partial band and a full band bra. I’ve learned a lot since, and there are some updates I’d like to make to that post. First is a clearer graphic that will hopefully explain the difference a little better. The measurements were also incorrect. I have deleted old posts since the information was not right and I’m fixing now. And don’t think that I’m moving away from soft bras like Nina Warner! They are still my favorite silhouette and I see myself going that route in the future, but this partial brand is just a fun little project. The pattern for a partial band and a full band bra are not the same, meaning you cannot sew the cups from a partial band bra into the frame of a full band bra. You also can’t decide mid-sewing to change a partial band bra to a full band bra or vice versa. In both cases, a pattern alteration is necessary. The only pattern piece that is interchangeable are the straps, and that’s assuming you have fabric straps and not elastic straps (elastic straps don’t require a pattern piece). A full band bra is a bra in which the cups are sewn into a frame, and a partial band bra is a bra in which there is no frame and the band and the bridge are separate pieces. For both styles, the wire line sits at the base of the breast, which is indicated by the lighter blue line in the figure above, but the position of the cup seam is different depending on the style. Briefly put, the cups for a partial band bra are bigger than the cups for a full band bra to account…

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tags: bra making, Construction, lingerie, Pattern Making Comments: 13

What I Made: Thongs + Free Pattern Download

My mother told me never to use the word “hate.” Well mom, I hate VPLs. Unless it’s the brand VPL, the acronym (visible panty lines) is a no-no in for my wardrobe. One way to avoid VPLs is to wear full coverage undies, and I’ve developed a high-waisted, bum-covering undie that is my TNT for dresses and loose fitting pants and shorts. But if I’m to achieve an entirely handmade lingerie wardrobe, I have to start making thongs because I wear tight pants, Ohh la la, here I go… Merckwaerdigh SS1 – blue and cream thong pictured – a lovely mix of 5 different thongs, some with scalloped lace and some without. RTW rub off – pink and white thong pictured – rub off from a RTW (ready to wear) pattern sent to me by a sewing friend, Di. We “met” on the Bra Making Forum Natasha and I started. Before PDFs, Di made a ton of thongs using patterns from McCalls and Kwik Sew. She hated all of them. They were either half way up her back or they were too wide in the thong part and folded up uncomfortably. Frustrated, she bought a bunch of RTW thongs and when she found the ones that fit well, she rubbed off the pattern and made a composite of various parts. She tweaked that pattern until she got exactly what she wanted and hasn’t bought a RTW thong since. Merckwaerdigh: front / back and crotch piece are 2 ply white matte jersey (Jack B. Fabrics) and waist is a scalloped lace (Arte Crafts). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste matte jersey plys together. I used 2 plys because 1 was too lightweight and sheer. RTW rub off: front / back are pink matte jersey (Fleishman Fabrics) and stretch lace (Spandex House). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste together. Crotch piece is white matte jersey (Jack…

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tags: lingerie, Pattern Making, Wardrobe, What I've Made Comments: 8

Weekend: Tried and True Patterns

Quick question for all you sewers. How many times does it take to make a garment before its pattern becomes tried and true (TNT)? I’m sure it varies from person to person and garment to garment, but I asking for an approximate. Two? Three? Five? It’s along the same lines as how long does it take for someone to master a skill? Some say 2 years while others say 10 years. Adding to this, once it becomes TNT, do you push it further or leave it as is? This has been going through my mind as I work on a few “TNT” bra patterns. Should I take it to the next step (adding different trims, using different techniques) or move on?

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tags: Construction, Pattern Making, Weekend Comments: 11