slashing and opening 21 Patternmaking: Slashing & Opening


When I first started working in technical design and was still training, I had the opportunity to work with many technical designers and pattern makers. Handling jackets, woven dresses, knit dresses, woven skirts, knit skirts, sweaters, loungewear, and intimates, I saw many fit issues. Rises, sleeves, armholes, I dealt with it all. It was frustrating at times to bounce from one tech and one category to another but it gave me insight into a hidden secret of the industry – that there are many ways to correct a one fit, pattern, or sewing issue and that one correction is not superior to the other. It’s all about if and how you back up your reasoning – it’s all about the perspective on the problem. There were many times when one tech told me to eliminate drag lines by doing A and when I went to another tech for approval, that tech would tell me to eliminate drag lines by doing B. Each tech correctly reasoned through their perspective on the issue so I considered each right.

The relationship of slashing and opening is another perspective issue.

The first month I joined the tech team, I was working on ‘fit comments’ for a jacket and we (I was an assistant at the time) were trying to reduce the bust dart intake so that the jacket would be less missy and more boyish (this was the request of the designers). As I verbally worked through my solution with my manager, she said to me, “But the amount you close isn’t always the amount that will open.” What?!?! She whipped out a post-it to show me but she had to scurry off to a meeting before we could get more in depth. I thought about what she said all afternoon – “So if I close a dart that is 3 1/4″, the amount that is opened won’t be 3 1/4″? Why?”

This techie tidbit has always stayed in my mind – I’ve never really gotten it. Every time I slash and open or slash and close, I measure the amount closed and the amount opened to see if I can prove my manager right. Nope. Every time, the amount closed and opened equal.

Have you ever heard of this? I would love to hear your perspective…
post footer pattern making Patternmaking: Slashing & Opening