I’m working through my Pinterest board and attempting to recreate RTW bras I find across the web. If I find a bra that’s from a store that has a local brick-and-mortar location, I visit to check out its construction and patterning. Edie Virginia is a combination of this pin and this pin. I couldn’t find this bra in a nearby store, but I stopped by Free People to scope out one of their most popular bra styles, which is similar to this style.
Cups and Band: 6” sage and gold stretch lace (Bra Makers Supply), underlined with nude stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting.
1/8” elastic at inner and outer cups (Fleishman Fabrics)
1/4” plush/picot elastic at top and bottom band (Bra Makers Supply)
1/2” strap elastic (Bra Makers Supply)
2 metal rings and sliders (Bra Makers Supply)
This bra is a soft bra in all sense of the word. With no channeling or underwire at the cup seam, it provides little support and if the fit isn’t right, a breast (or both!) could spill out easily. In my opinion, the key to preventing this was two-fold. Anne touched on the first reason when she wrote about moving the vertical seams on her Watson. After wearing, she found that if she bent forward or to the side, she often fell out of the cups. Once she shifted the vertical seam so it crossed directly over her apex, ta-da!, no more spillage. So when I draped this style on body – yes my body; the pattern is completely self-drafted – I made sure that the vertical seam crossed over my apex. After a few wearing, I can attest that there has been no spillage either. I’m not sure if that due to the seam placement or that my girls are too small. #smallboobsperks.
The other key to getting the fit right is making sure the vertical seam has the right shape. From shoulder to underbust, your chest first curves inwards and then curves outwards. So, the pattern has to be shaped to match; it can’t be a straight line from apex to shoulder. If it does, you will get vertical drag lines. See the graphic below – I gives a better explanation.
The trickiest part of construction was finishing the inner and outer edges of the cups. Both had a scalloped lace and on many RTW bras, there is zig zag stitch close to the edge and the lining is left raw. Here is an image someone posted in Bra Making Forum. Even though mesh doesn’t fray, I don’t like raw seam allowances on the inside of any garment. Period. I experimented with many different finishing options, my favorite being the one above – to clean finish the lining with 1/8”elastic. In a nutshell, here’s what I did. With the wrong side of bra facing up, I sewed the elastic to the stretch mesh only (I pushed self fabric out of the way). After, I flipped elastic to the opposite/inside side, then sewed again through all layers.
I also only sewed one zig zag pass on the bottom band elastic because when I sewed the second, the shirring was eliminated and for this style/silhouette, I wanted slight ruching.
undies are Merckwaerdigh SS1 and I posted about them here.