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What I Made: Edie Evelyn

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I’m working through my Pinterest board and attempting to recreate RTW bras I find across the web. If I find a bra that’s from a store that has a local brick-and-mortar location, I visit to check out its construction and patterning. Edie Virginia is a combination of this pin and this pin. I couldn’t find this bra in a nearby store, but I stopped by Free People to scope out one of their most popular bra styles, which is similar to this style.

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FABRIC

Cups and Band: 6” sage and gold stretch lace (Bra Makers Supply), underlined with nude stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting.

1/8” elastic at inner and outer cups (Fleishman Fabrics)
1/4” plush/picot elastic at top and bottom band (Bra Makers Supply)
1/2” strap elastic (Bra Makers Supply)
2 metal rings and sliders (Bra Makers Supply)

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pattern

This bra is a soft bra in all sense of the word. With no channeling or underwire at the cup seam, it provides little support and if the fit isn’t right, a breast (or both!) could spill out easily. In my opinion, the key to preventing this was two-fold. Anne touched on the first reason when she wrote about moving the vertical seams on her Watson. After wearing, she found that if she bent forward or to the side, she often fell out of the cups. Once she shifted the vertical seam so it crossed directly over her apex, ta-da!, no more spillage. So when I draped this style on body – yes my body; the pattern is completely self-drafted – I made sure that the vertical seam crossed over my apex. After a few wearing, I can attest that there has been no spillage either. I’m not sure if that due to the seam placement or that my girls are too small. #smallboobsperks.

The other key to getting the fit right is making sure the vertical seam has the right shape. From shoulder to underbust, your chest first curves inwards and then curves outwards. So, the pattern has to be shaped to match; it can’t be a straight line from apex to shoulder. If it does, you will get vertical drag lines. See the graphic below – I gives a better explanation.

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constructionThe trickiest part of construction was finishing the inner and outer edges of the cups. Both had a scalloped lace and on many RTW bras, there is zig zag stitch close to the edge and the lining is left raw. Here is an image someone posted in Bra Making Forum. Even though mesh doesn’t fray, I don’t like raw seam allowances on the inside of any garment. Period. I experimented with many different finishing options, my favorite being the one above – to clean finish the lining with 1/8”elastic. In a nutshell, here’s what I did. With the wrong side of bra facing up, I sewed the elastic to the stretch mesh only (I pushed self fabric out of the way). After, I flipped elastic to the opposite/inside side, then sewed again through all layers.

I also only sewed one zig zag pass on the bottom band elastic because when I sewed the second, the shirring was eliminated and for this style/silhouette, I wanted slight ruching.

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COMMENTS

This bra is the perfect combination of sexy and everyday. When I wear Nina or Nellie Warner, I feel a little sporty, but with this bra, I feel a lot more feminine.

undies are Merckwaerdigh SS1 and I posted about them here.

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14 Comments

  1. Reply

    Sophie

    LOVE! I want to swan around in these (in my size…ahem) right now! I love the softness of underwire-less bras. Those are also some might neat insides….

    • Reply

      maddiemadalynne

      Your size is coming your way soon! 🙂

  2. Reply

    Amelia Larson

    Very pretty! I will be interested to find out what you discover about making this bra more supportive. Though my breasts are quite small also, the combination of age along with having had three children means that they are sad to say, rather “droopy.” Breasts don’t neccessarily have to be large to need support.

    • Reply

      maddie

      Very good point! I’ll let you know what I find out about making the bra more supportive. I’m making a few custom pieces and will experiment with different fabric and elastics.

  3. Reply

    sallie

    I think this might be my favorite bra you’ve ever made. Very pretty, and such a romantic style.

  4. Reply

    Kait

    Ahh, the bras I used to know *heavy sigh*. First baby on the way, so I’ve catapulted several sizes from my Goldilocks’ “can-get-away-without-support” size to fully-stocked milk factories. Alas. I believe the girls are 10 lbs each now. (Not that I’m truly complaining — It’s a marvel that my body is naturally prepared to feed this kiddo).

    Absolutely beautiful work here though, I must say. Nice that there was a simple solution to the spillage issue — does the seam placement cause any discomfort at that placement? That would be my only concern is the slight friction if your seam is straight down center-nip.

    Also, finished seams all the way — totally with you on that front.

    • Reply

      maddiemadalynne

      I just can’t stand the sight of raw seam allowances. Ack! The vertical seam is not bothersome – I don’t feel it at all. Again, I’m not sure if that’s because of my small size. I’m hoping that the custom pieces I’m making for women with a larger chest will answer a lot of my questions.

  5. Reply

    Lisa

    Wow, I love this. I wish I had the skill to make something like that. Beautiful!

    • Reply

      maddiemadalynne

      You should attend one of my workshops! I’ll having you whipping up bras in no time : )

  6. Reply

    ellegeemakes

    Simply gorgeous!! The finishings are incredible too.

  7. Reply

    Jade

    This is so beautiful, I am blown away! Very inspiring~

  8. Reply

    frenie

    I’m a really new sewer and so want to sew garments, Just having a few tips of where to start sewing patterns is so fantastic!

  9. Reply

    SmilaZ

    Yes it’s a very pretty set you made there.
    …but if you do some experimenting for support then why not try playing with creating half-wired bras!? …
    This has been on my mind since ages, Because for big breasts the wired bras always do one right thing, and that is keeping the breasts separated in the middle of the chest, compared to the wireless bras where big breasts always end up gathered in a bulk at the middle of the chest. So My conclusion is that a wire should just not go all the way up the side of the body but that the wire should be approx half its original length going from the mid-chest as usual but no longer that a bit past the middle of each breast.

    Shame We don’t live close I’d love to be part of this experimenting and adjusting to create the perfect result of a new bra functionality-design.

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