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What I Made: Eleanor Sykes

eleanor_sykes-1Just when I was doing a good job at staying on track on my quest to develop an entirely handmade lingerie wardrobe, I detour and sew something not on my list. Also, didn’t I write in my last bra post that I wanted to make more soft bras? Yep, this bra, Eleanor Sykes, has an underwire. Blame bra queen Beverly Johnson for releasing a new class on Craftsy, Sewing Bras: Designer Technique. Who else was blindsided by the launch? I first got word when someone posted about it on Bra Making Forum, a closed Facebook group Natasha and I started (haven’t heard about it? Click here to learn more and possibly join!). I HAD to take it. Within the first 15 minutes, Beverly demonstrates how to transform a full band bra pattern into a partial band. It’s an easy pattern alteration – which I wrote about here last week – and I had the perfect pattern to use. So I threw my plan out the window. We all have cheat days. Some involve high fat, high carbohydrate foods while others involve partial band bras.

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overview

A partial band bra featuring horizontal cross cup seams, 3-hook and eye closure and 1/8” elastic straps. The pattern was drafted from Amber Rosalind using Beverly Johnson’s method in her new Craftsy class.

FABRIC

Cups and band: Navy blue stretch lace (Arte Crafts) lined with power net (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to temporarily baste the fabrics together before sewing.

Bridge: Navy blue stretch lace (Arte Crafts) lined with two layers 15-denier tricot

trims
All trims were sourced from Bra Makers Supply:
3/8” plush/picot elastic at underarm, top band and neckline
½” plush/picot elastic at bottom band
1/8” strap elastic
1/8” and ¼” rings and sliders

power net and trims were dyed royal blue using acid dye from Dharma Trading.

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cutting_construction

Again, the pattern was drafted from Amber Rosalind using Beverly Johnson’s method in her new Craftsy class.

Cutting was standard – I spray basted the lace to power net/tricot using 505 and then cut

I used a new technique to finish the cross cup seams. Normally, I serge with poly or woolly nylon thread, or I use this technique. The latter is a method that mimics tricot tape many RTW bras use. It’s hard to source and I’ve tried several times to make it with no success. This is the closest I’ve come and I think it’s pretty darn close to the real thing. I cut long strips of tricot. I didn’t measure width or length as I’d cut them to size while sewing. After sewing upper cup to lower cup, I sewed tricot strip on the same seam line. After, I graded seam allowance and flipped the tricot tape to the other side and sewed again. Then, I trimmed tricot to seam line. Last, I topstitched down from the right side. If you’re interested in a follow up tutorial, let me know in the comments below!

COMMENTS

This bra is just okay. I like it, but I’m not a huge fan. The construction and pattern turned out great, but the royal blue trimming and lining is not my style.

I’m glad I made the detour because I really enjoyed sewing it. I’m even re evaluating my lingerie wardrobe. Maybe soft bras isn’t the only type of bra in my future? Or maybe I can blend what I like about soft bras with Eleanor Sykes. Stay tuned!

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13 Comments

  1. Reply

    Nathalie

    Well I love the royal blue colour.

  2. Reply

    Pam jones

    The blue may not be your style, but it is beautiful! The follow up tutorial on the tricot would be helpful for the visual learners. Thanks.

    • Reply

      maddie

      I’m on it! Stay tuned!

  3. Reply

    Dee

    I love this style – although I’m rather large chested so I think I would get the support I need from this partial band. I would love to see a tutorial on the tricot though as its a lovely finish.

  4. Reply

    Dee

    *wouldn’t* get the support from a partial band

  5. Reply

    eliseyloo

    This is beautiful, and I’d love to see more explanation of the tricot tape. Thanks!

  6. Reply

    Natasha Estrada

    What would happen if we mixed a bra making cheat day with salted caramel gelato? I think this could be a movement. #hashbrown

  7. Reply

    Veronica Darling (@veronicadarling)

    It seems functional enough! Do you always use spray adhesive on bras? That’s really interesting… I have always imagined a million pins holding all the layers down… I have no clue how they’re put together! Gotta get round to it soon!

    • Reply

      maddie

      I rarely use pins when sewing a bra, like once in a blue moon. I don’t know what I would do if I didn’t have my spray adhesive. I’d probably run to the store rather than try to sew without it.

  8. Reply

    Kaira

    I’m definitely a visual learner so a tutorial would be much appreciated!

  9. Reply

    newmodellame

    Beautiful, I love the colour. How satisfying to be able to make your own lingerie!

  10. Reply

    Amiko

    Loving the tonal blue theme! Super beautiful.

  11. Reply

    Piarve

    Making a lingerie set is definitly on my Sewing-to-do. This looks great and wearable.

    https://sewmodiste.com

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