Just when I was doing a good job at staying on track on my quest to develop an entirely handmade lingerie wardrobe, I detour and sew something not on my list. Also, didn’t I write in my last bra post that I wanted to make more soft bras? Yep, this bra, Eleanor Sykes, has an underwire. Blame bra queen Beverly Johnson for releasing a new class on Craftsy, Sewing Bras: Designer Technique. Who else was blindsided by the launch? I first got word when someone posted about it on Bra Making Forum, a closed Facebook group Natasha and I started (haven’t heard about it? Click here to learn more and possibly join!). I HAD to take it. Within the first 15 minutes, Beverly demonstrates how to transform a full band bra pattern into a partial band. It’s an easy pattern alteration – which I wrote about here last week – and I had the perfect pattern to use. So I threw my plan out the window. We all have cheat days. Some involve high fat, high carbohydrate foods while others involve partial band bras.
A partial band bra featuring horizontal cross cup seams, 3-hook and eye closure and 1/8” elastic straps. The pattern was drafted from Amber Rosalind using Beverly Johnson’s method in her new Craftsy class.
Bridge: Navy blue stretch lace (Arte Crafts) lined with two layers 15-denier tricot
All trims were sourced from Bra Makers Supply:
3/8” plush/picot elastic at underarm, top band and neckline
½” plush/picot elastic at bottom band
1/8” strap elastic
1/8” and ¼” rings and sliders
power net and trims were dyed royal blue using acid dye from Dharma Trading.
Again, the pattern was drafted from Amber Rosalind using Beverly Johnson’s method in her new Craftsy class.
Cutting was standard – I spray basted the lace to power net/tricot using 505 and then cut
I used a new technique to finish the cross cup seams. Normally, I serge with poly or woolly nylon thread, or I use this technique. The latter is a method that mimics tricot tape many RTW bras use. It’s hard to source and I’ve tried several times to make it with no success. This is the closest I’ve come and I think it’s pretty darn close to the real thing. I cut long strips of tricot. I didn’t measure width or length as I’d cut them to size while sewing. After sewing upper cup to lower cup, I sewed tricot strip on the same seam line. After, I graded seam allowance and flipped the tricot tape to the other side and sewed again. Then, I trimmed tricot to seam line. Last, I topstitched down from the right side. If you’re interested in a follow up tutorial, let me know in the comments below!
This bra is just okay. I like it, but I’m not a huge fan. The construction and pattern turned out great, but the royal blue trimming and lining is not my style.
I’m glad I made the detour because I really enjoyed sewing it. I’m even re evaluating my lingerie wardrobe. Maybe soft bras isn’t the only type of bra in my future? Or maybe I can blend what I like about soft bras with Eleanor Sykes. Stay tuned!