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What I Made: Maybelline

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The feedback I received from the intimates survey has helped me so much. Again, thank you! I would kiss you if we were in person. Okay, maybe not! When I posted the results, I asked larger chested women to tell me why they don’t wear a soft bra and what would push them to try one. For the most part, the comments expressed the same thing – that soft bras don’t provide enough support, which can be painful for some, and creates a mono boob. Nobody likes a mono boob just like nobody likes a unibrow. Sorry Frida. Although Mallori Lane is super comfortable, it functions like a compression sports bra, flattening out the chest and creating a dun, dun, dun… mono boob. I’ve been pinning a lot of bras with boxy, sharp silhouettes – here and here are two examples – and I wanted to transform Mallori Lane into something similar as well as transform it into a style that would flatten less and accommodate projection/volume. After editing the photos – personally, I don’t get a clear sense of fit until I see it on body in photos – I don’t think I accomplished the silhouette I envisioned, but just like Nina and Nellie Warner, it’s a work in progress. So, there will be more iterations as I develop this pattern!

FABRIC

CENTER FRONT, SIDE FRONT, TOP BACK BAND: metallic lycra lined with stretch mesh, both from Fleishman Fabrics. I cut lycra and lining separately and didn’t use temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together, which is what I usually do. I did this because I clean finished the princess and side seams.

BOTTOM FRONT AND BACK BAND: black stretch lace with metallic threads from Tailor Made Shop.

1/4” stretch piping at underarm, which functions the same way as picot/plush elastic, purchased from Bra Makers Supply
½” rings and sliders from Bra Makers Supply
½” strap elastic from Tailor Made Shop

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To transform the Mallori Lane pattern to this pattern, I tried on Mallori Lane, stood in front of the mirror, and used this skinny masking tape to experiment with the design lines. When I worked in tech design, I used this tape a lot to “draw” on the mannequin/dress form. What you see is what I came up with, and there really was no rhyme or reason how I ended up here. Just messed around till I liked what I saw. Transferring this to the pattern took several attempts – first the neckline was too curved, then the strap points were too far apart, then the horizontal/center front line was too high, yada, yada, yada. I am not in love with it – I want it to be boxier – and I think that’s a matter of bringing the strap point closer together in order to get that sharp curve at the horizontal, center front line.

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Since the construction of this bra is very similar to Mallori lane, sewing was easy. What was most difficult was figuring out how to finish the front neckline. I wanted to have a sharp corner so that the silhouette would be boxy. For my first attempt, I finished the neckline with elastic the “regular” way – I placed elastic plush side up on right side of fabric, sewed along the picot edge, then flipped elastic to wrong side and sewed the opposite edge. I applied the elastic to the left neckline, then to the right neckline, then clipped into the corner (the same way you do when sewing a welt pocket), and then sewed the center front. Because you could see where the zig zag start and stopped at the points, it looked slightly homemade. For my second attempt, I sandwiched stretch piping between the self fabric and the lining fabric and attached it the same way as above (right neckline, left neckline, clip, then center front). It was definitely a cleaner finish, but very bulky. For my third attempt, I placed right side of fabric against right side of lining with nothing sandwiched in between and sewed the entire neckline in one swoop with a small zig zag (2.0 mm / 1.5 mm). After, I went back and I sewed with a straight stitch ½” before and after the points. I used a short stitch length – 1.5 mm – just like you would at any point to be clipped on a “normal”garment. Then I clipped, and flipped the lining to the inside. Winner, winner chicken dinner!

The rest of the bra came together in a snap. I actually timed myself and it took me from 1 1/2 hours to sew the entire thing. I’m a slow sewer, so that’s good for me!

I also clean finished the princess seam and the side seam, so it’s super pretty on the inside. Woot woot!

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COMMENTSI’ve been using labels for the lingerie I make for other people. If you’re looking for labels at a great price, check out Clothing Labels4U. The ordering process is a little tedious, but for the cost, it’s worth it.

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So about the undies. Aren’t they purty? I consider this a wearable muslin, and I’m not going to say a lot about them until I make a couple more.

FABRIC

FRONT AND BACK: metallic lycra lined with stretch mesh, both from Fleishman Fabrics. I cut lycra and lining separately and I didn’t use temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together like I usually do. I did this because I clean finished the crotch seam.

1/4” stretch piping at front and back cutouts, which functions the same way as picot/plush elastic, purchased from Bra Makers Supply
3/8” rings and sliders from Bra Makers Supply
3/8” strap elastic from Bra Makers Supply
3/8” firm elastic for waist and leg opening from Bra Makers Supply

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These undies were inspired by Kayleigh Peddie’s undies. It was super easy to develop the pattern. I made a sample pair using my undie block and the metallic lycra, then used the skinny tape mentioned above to get the cut right. After, I transferred it to the pattern. Like I wrote above, this pair is a wearable muslin and I definitely want to make many changes to it.

Construction was a cinch too – standard for any undie. I finished cutouts with ¼” stretch piping, then sewed elastic to front and back waist. After, I sewed from and back together at crotch seam, attached elastic to leg opening, then attached strapping.

5 Comments

  1. Reply

    Cyndi

    Cute! I am not large chested but I am no fan of the monoboob. If you succeed in this endeavor, I will kiss you! Or at least buy you pattern 🙂

    • Reply

      maddie

      We will keep it PG – cheek to cheek just like the French!

      • Reply

        Cyndi

        Perfect! And I will be waiting for that finished pattern, patiently!

  2. Reply

    Sophie

    I will SO be making those undies if it gets released as a pattern! Gorgeous set Maddie. Love the lingerie posts!

  3. Reply

    Erin

    Love it! 🙂 And those labels look so professional too!

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