Category: What I’ve Made

What i Made: Mallori Lane

What I like most about Merckwaerdigh’s patterns is that one pattern comes with several different variations of essential the same bra. I’ve been toying with my patterns to do the same, so that fronts, backs and strap details are interchangeable. At least somewhat. I really like the cutout back on Nellie Warner, so I tried to recreate it in a different way for this bra, Mallori Lane. I also added a bottom band that channels Fortnight Lingerie. To top it off, I made it with sequin mesh. Every woman NEEDS a sequin bra. Not wants, needs! I hate to leave you hanging, but stay tuned later this week for an exciting announcement about Mallori Lane! Front bodice: flat sequin mesh (Jack B Fabrics), underline with matte jersey (Jack B Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting. Bottom band: 2 ply stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting. The sequin mesh had enough stretch/recovery to be used on its own, but the wrong side is very scratchy, so I lined with a soft, matte jersey. I’ve worn it on many occasions and the only time I can feel the sequins is when I wear a sleeveless shirt and under part of my upper arm rubs against it, but it’s not enough to cause a rash or prevent me from wearing it. 3/8” plush/picot elastic at top and bottom band (Bra Makers Supply) 1/4” strap elastic for vertical and horizontal back straps (Bra Makers Supply) 2 metal rings and sliders (Bra Makers Supply) 3/8” channeling for side (Bra Makers Supply) I drafted the front piece using my measurements and this Pinterest image. It was a pretty straight-forward, simple draft. Because there is no seaming (i.e. cross cup…

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tags: bra making, Construction, lingerie, What I've Made Comments: 11

What I Made: Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Just like Cloth Habit’s Watson Bra, it seems like everyone has made Merckwaerdigh’s BHS10. There are numerous reviews on Pattern Review. I’ve been meaning to make one, it was on my list when I wrote about building a bra wardrobe, but well, life and other bra making got in the way. Merckweardigh BHS10 is a mix of 5 different bras – a soft bra which can also be used as a bikini top, a luxury sport bra, a laced soft bra, an all lace underwired bra and a smooth padded bra. I made the luxury sports bra (the one at the upper left hand corner on the pattern envelope). Upper cup, lower cup, side front and racerback: 5 1/2” teal and white galloon stretch lace (Arte Crafts), lined with stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting. Center front: same stretch lace as rest of bra, but lined with 15 denier tricot (Bra Makers Supply) 3/8” plush/picot elastic at racerback, under arm (Bra Makers Supply) 3/4” plush/picot elastic at bottom band (Bra Makers Supply) 1/4” soft/picot elastic at neck (picot was cut off – read below) I’ve been looking for a soft, 1/8”- 1/4” elastic with no picot to use on the top edge of the upper cup with a scallop lace. I’ve seen it on RTW bras, but can’t find a vendor that sells it. The only kind I’ve seen is knitted elastic, which is not soft and is meant to be encased in a tunnel or turned under. I could have not lined the upper cut, but I like the additional support of the mesh. I also could have used clear elastic, but it’s really difficult to sew and in my opinion, looks handmade. So, I cut off the picot…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making, What I've Made Comments: 1

What I Made: Nellie Warner (Nina Warner Part Deux)

I’m still in a stage where I’m making as many bra styles before finding my own. I’ve even created a Pinterest board… because who doesn’t love pretending you have more time than you actually have to make a perfectly curated lingerie wardrobe? With each bra, I’m refining the silhouettes, the level of support, the type of fabrics and trims that suit me. Surprisingly, this style has become my favorite go-to, casual bra. You would think that because of the high neckline, I would only be able to wear it under shirts with a high neckline as well. Not so. It’s super cute peeking out from underneath a button down blouse or an oversized tee with a low armhole. This bra, Nellie Warner, is an evolution of Nina Warner, and Nina Warner is an evolution of the Kitri Lace Crop Bra, which I first made last year. My goal was to add another variation/option to the pattern, which is a cutout racerback. Nellie Warner is an evolution of Nina Warner, and Nina Warner was an evolution of the Kitri Crop Lace Bra. My goal was to add a variation/option to the pattern, which was a cutout racerback. The bra also features princess seams and a bottom band. Center front, side front and back: Italian velvet-flocked lace knit (Emma One Sock), lined with firm/classic power net (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together prior to cutting. Bottom band: stretch scalloped lace (gifted from Donna, a sewing friend who is a member of Bra Making Forum). This bra was a lesson of the importance of recovery in stretch fabrics. The fabric, a beautiful Italian velvet-flocked lace knit, has a lot of stretch (80% in one direction and 60% in the other) and little recovery. As a frame of reference, a high stretch fabric in lingerie…

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tags: bra making, Construction, knits, lingerie, What I've Made Comments: 11

What I Made: Eleanor Sykes

Just when I was doing a good job at staying on track on my quest to develop an entirely handmade lingerie wardrobe, I detour and sew something not on my list. Also, didn’t I write in my last bra post that I wanted to make more soft bras? Yep, this bra, Eleanor Sykes, has an underwire. Blame bra queen Beverly Johnson for releasing a new class on Craftsy, Sewing Bras: Designer Technique. Who else was blindsided by the launch? I first got word when someone posted about it on Bra Making Forum, a closed Facebook group Natasha and I started (haven’t heard about it? Click here to learn more and possibly join!). I HAD to take it. Within the first 15 minutes, Beverly demonstrates how to transform a full band bra pattern into a partial band. It’s an easy pattern alteration – which I wrote about here last week – and I had the perfect pattern to use. So I threw my plan out the window. We all have cheat days. Some involve high fat, high carbohydrate foods while others involve partial band bras. A partial band bra featuring horizontal cross cup seams, 3-hook and eye closure and 1/8” elastic straps. The pattern was drafted from Amber Rosalind using Beverly Johnson’s method in her new Craftsy class. Cups and band: Navy blue stretch lace (Arte Crafts) lined with power net (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to temporarily baste the fabrics together before sewing. Bridge: Navy blue stretch lace (Arte Crafts) lined with two layers 15-denier tricot All trims were sourced from Bra Makers Supply: 3/8” plush/picot elastic at underarm, top band and neckline ½” plush/picot elastic at bottom band 1/8” strap elastic 1/8” and ¼” rings and sliders power net and trims were dyed royal blue using acid dye…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, What I've Made Comments: 13

What I Made: Thongs + Free Pattern Download

My mother told me never to use the word “hate.” Well mom, I hate VPLs. Unless it’s the brand VPL, the acronym (visible panty lines) is a no-no in for my wardrobe. One way to avoid VPLs is to wear full coverage undies, and I’ve developed a high-waisted, bum-covering undie that is my TNT for dresses and loose fitting pants and shorts. But if I’m to achieve an entirely handmade lingerie wardrobe, I have to start making thongs because I wear tight pants, Ohh la la, here I go… Merckwaerdigh SS1 – blue and cream thong pictured – a lovely mix of 5 different thongs, some with scalloped lace and some without. RTW rub off – pink and white thong pictured – rub off from a RTW (ready to wear) pattern sent to me by a sewing friend, Di. We “met” on the Bra Making Forum Natasha and I started. Before PDFs, Di made a ton of thongs using patterns from McCalls and Kwik Sew. She hated all of them. They were either half way up her back or they were too wide in the thong part and folded up uncomfortably. Frustrated, she bought a bunch of RTW thongs and when she found the ones that fit well, she rubbed off the pattern and made a composite of various parts. She tweaked that pattern until she got exactly what she wanted and hasn’t bought a RTW thong since. Merckwaerdigh: front / back and crotch piece are 2 ply white matte jersey (Jack B. Fabrics) and waist is a scalloped lace (Arte Crafts). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste matte jersey plys together. I used 2 plys because 1 was too lightweight and sheer. RTW rub off: front / back are pink matte jersey (Fleishman Fabrics) and stretch lace (Spandex House). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste together. Crotch piece is white matte jersey (Jack…

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tags: lingerie, Pattern Making, Wardrobe, What I've Made Comments: 8