Category: What I’ve Made

What I Made: Allegra

This is not the first bodysuit I’ve sewn. It was a year and a half ago that I made Heather Lou’s The Nettie. Like Allegra, it was backless and was made with white and cream lace. With long sleeves, it could be worn as innerwear, but I saw most other sewists make outerwear versions. I wore mine with boyfriend jeans. My girl Lola rocked an ombre Nettie and my bra making muse, Amy, channeled her inner Marilyn with a simple black Nettie. Even after Nettie and Allegra, I’m still on the fence about bodysuits, which I will get to below. First, the deets. Fabric + Trims Front and back (body): cream, textured lycra from Fleishman Fabrics underlined with power net from Bra Makers Supply. I used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting. I treated the layers as one going forward. Cups: 6.75″ metallic stretch galloon lace from Tailor Made Shop underlined with power net (same as for body) from Bra Makers Supply Crotch Lining: white cotton jersey from Fleishman Fabrics 3/8” white plush/picot elastic for underarm and center back edges from Bra Making Supplies by Arte Crafts 1/8” white elastic for front neck edges (clean finished with underlining – see photos) from Bra Makers Supply 1/4” cream stretch grosgrain strap elastic from Pacific Trimming 3/8” gold rings and sliders from Bra Makers Supply (ran out of 1/4”) I’ve been getting a heck of a lot better at dyeing. It’s easy to achieve a dark color – you just add a ton of dye. You can’t really add too much because your fabric and trims will only take a certain amount, and at that point, it’s exactly what you want – opaque. Achieving a lighter color, however, is difficult. Getting the hang of dyeing light colors is like getting the hang of sewing elastic. At first, you want to stretch the heck of out elastic. It’s takes many tries to…

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tags: bra making, Construction, lingerie, What I've Made Comments: 8

How I Wear Sierra + Updated Pattern

Now that you and I have made a Sierra, it’s time to wear that bad boy! Bad lady? There are many ways I wear Sierra, but this is my favorite look. I’m lucky in that I work in a casual office where the dress code is VERY relaxed- I work in fashion – and this is what I wore on Wednesday. The dress is from Urban Outfitters and the shoes are from Free People. Because I’ve spent most of this year beefing up my lingerie wardrobe, my regular wardrobe is mostly RTW. I don’t feel ashamed about it because I have some pretty darn, good-looking, me-made skivvies. I’m not superwoman and I can’t sew it all. Because Sierra is a halter, it “should” be paired with a halter top or a blouse that’s close at the neck. But assuming that you don’t want your bra straps showing. If you’re like me and you like to make your lingerie a part of your outfit, have it peeking through an oversized top or a top with a low armhole. On weekends, you’ll most often see me wearing my Sierra in an outfit like this (last picture in the post). Now that the sew along is over, I’ve updated the PDF with the instructions. There was only one question that came up (how to cut the back piece), which I clarified in the post as well as the PDF. The sew along will live on the blog for free, but if you want all instructions, patterns, and tips packaged together, I’m offering the whole PDF for those who sign up for my monthly newsletter. Click here to be added (you’ll receive the PDF in the final welcome email). If you made a Sierra, how do you wear it? In the house only? To work? On the weekends? Please share! And don’t forget to upload…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Wardrobe, What I've Made Comments: 7

What I Made: Noelle Warner

I think I did it, I think I finally achieved the fit I want with Nina/Nellie/Nicole/now Noelle. As excited as I am about getting to this point, I’m sure you’re excited that I won’t be coming up with any more cheesy names. Looking back at the process, it’s funny that I almost did a 180, ending up close to where I started. This bra began when Elma from Handmade by Elma allowed me to use her pattern for the KITRI bra to make my own version. It had princess seams, and at the point where the side front meets the center front, there is a sharp corner. On the second version, I changed this by blending the underarm curve so it transitioned smoothly at that intersection. The resulting bra was super comfortable, but wasn’t flattering. Using several Pinterest images as inspiration as well as your feedback, I tweaked and fine tuned the front neckline until I arrived at what you see today. Ninety percent of the construction is as before, so if you want to learn more about the sewing, check out those posts here, here and here. There were a few minor updates, which I’ll explain below. Front, top back band and front bottom band: black and white printed lycra lined with stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). GASP! I did NOT use temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together prior to cutting. I treated the layers separately, and I’ll tell you why below. Bottom back band: black stretch scalloped lace (Bra Makers Supply) 1/4” picot elastic throughout (Fleishman Fabrics) 1/4” white strap elastic (Bra Makers Supply) A couple of updates to how this bra was sewn. The first was that I lined instead of underlined the front. Previously, I used my serger (Juki MO-654DE – seriously affordable and seriously awesome) to sew most…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Photography, What I've Made Comments: 11

What i Made: Mallori Lane

What I like most about Merckwaerdigh’s patterns is that one pattern comes with several different variations of essential the same bra. I’ve been toying with my patterns to do the same, so that fronts, backs and strap details are interchangeable. At least somewhat. I really like the cutout back on Nellie Warner, so I tried to recreate it in a different way for this bra, Mallori Lane. I also added a bottom band that channels Fortnight Lingerie. To top it off, I made it with sequin mesh. Every woman NEEDS a sequin bra. Not wants, needs! I hate to leave you hanging, but stay tuned later this week for an exciting announcement about Mallori Lane! Front bodice: flat sequin mesh (Jack B Fabrics), underline with matte jersey (Jack B Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting. Bottom band: 2 ply stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting. The sequin mesh had enough stretch/recovery to be used on its own, but the wrong side is very scratchy, so I lined with a soft, matte jersey. I’ve worn it on many occasions and the only time I can feel the sequins is when I wear a sleeveless shirt and under part of my upper arm rubs against it, but it’s not enough to cause a rash or prevent me from wearing it. 3/8” plush/picot elastic at top and bottom band (Bra Makers Supply) 1/4” strap elastic for vertical and horizontal back straps (Bra Makers Supply) 2 metal rings and sliders (Bra Makers Supply) 3/8” channeling for side (Bra Makers Supply) I drafted the front piece using my measurements and this Pinterest image. It was a pretty straight-forward, simple draft. Because there is no seaming (i.e. cross cup…

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tags: bra making, Construction, lingerie, What I've Made Comments: 11

What I Made: Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Just like Cloth Habit’s Watson Bra, it seems like everyone has made Merckwaerdigh’s BHS10. There are numerous reviews on Pattern Review. I’ve been meaning to make one, it was on my list when I wrote about building a bra wardrobe, but well, life and other bra making got in the way. Merckweardigh BHS10 is a mix of 5 different bras – a soft bra which can also be used as a bikini top, a luxury sport bra, a laced soft bra, an all lace underwired bra and a smooth padded bra. I made the luxury sports bra (the one at the upper left hand corner on the pattern envelope). Upper cup, lower cup, side front and racerback: 5 1/2” teal and white galloon stretch lace (Arte Crafts), lined with stretch mesh (Fleishman Fabrics). Used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste fabrics together prior to cutting. Center front: same stretch lace as rest of bra, but lined with 15 denier tricot (Bra Makers Supply) 3/8” plush/picot elastic at racerback, under arm (Bra Makers Supply) 3/4” plush/picot elastic at bottom band (Bra Makers Supply) 1/4” soft/picot elastic at neck (picot was cut off – read below) I’ve been looking for a soft, 1/8”- 1/4” elastic with no picot to use on the top edge of the upper cup with a scallop lace. I’ve seen it on RTW bras, but can’t find a vendor that sells it. The only kind I’ve seen is knitted elastic, which is not soft and is meant to be encased in a tunnel or turned under. I could have not lined the upper cut, but I like the additional support of the mesh. I also could have used clear elastic, but it’s really difficult to sew and in my opinion, looks handmade. So, I cut off the picot…

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tags: bra making, lingerie, Pattern Making, What I've Made Comments: 1